Now that we’ve looked at the history of the Pousse Café, particularly in France and most recently – as Knickebein – in Germany, it’s time to turn our attention to its development in the USA. What happened to it there?
Appletons journal of literature, science and art. Volume 1, issue 12. 19. Juni 1869, page 378. [2-378]
It can be assumed that the Pousse Café was drunk in Louisiana early on as part of French culture. If we disregard the confirmation by Jerry Thomas in 1862, then we found the first evidence of its presence in New Orleans in 1869: “The Creoles always call the small glass of liquor, or liqueur, at the end of the dinner, pousse-café.”[2-378]
This is an important clue, because it means that the Pousse Café was ubiquitous in New Orleans – and it was probably there that the Pousse Café was developed into an alcoholic layered drink in its own right.
We have already quoted from the letter according to which an English-speaking captain in 1851 advised that for the best possible Chasse Café – i.e. Pousse Café – a liqueur glass should be filled two-thirds full with Curaçao and then topped with kirsch. [1-1] Interestingly, we were unable to find any such custom in French sources. It therefore seems likely that such layering is something that was developed outside France. As explained in the post about the Knickebein, there is much to suggest that this happened in Germany.
David Wondrich believes that the use of liqueurs, even in mixed drinks, goes back to a French influence and notes: “The use of liqueurs and syrups was another Parisian limonadier’s speciality. What Regent’s Punch contributes to the art of mixing drinks isn’t novelty, it’s taste. Whoever first compounded it took the best ideas of the old English and | 234 | new French traditions and wove them together seamlessly into a complex, admittedly fancy Punch that was nonetheless heady and utterly intoxicating, without any of the technical challenges of Punch à la Romaine. … Before long, like most appurtenances of the British high life, Regent’s Punch was in common use in New York. Edgar Allan Poe’s Gentleman’s Magazine observed in 1839 that it was ›long the fashionable tipple at the symposius of the elite,‹ and that was true whichever side of the Atlantic you were on.”[4-233][4-234]
In the Oxford Companion, David Wondrich writes that there are three early recipes, one of which dates back to 1820 and was written by Philippe Wattier, who was responsible for preparing punch in the Prince’s household. He notes: “It is also worth noting that Wattier was from Metz, since Regent’s Punch displays many of the prismatic characteristics of French and German Punch making of the late eighteenth century, where the sweet, sour, strong, and weak elements of punch are each divided between several ingredients. Indeed, Regent’s Punch acted as a vector for such ideas, and for ingredients such as curaçao, maraschino, and champagne to enter British and American mixology. In fact, it enjoyed a longer career in America than it did in Britain, where it quickly faded in the face of Queen Victoria’s disapproval of the heavy-drinking ways of her predecessors and their cronies, although it was still occasionally sold as a pre-bottled speciality through the 1880s. In New York, on the other hand, Regent’s Punch was particularly appreciated. In the 1820s, William Niblo’s rendition of the drink helped him to become the city’s leading caterer. Later in the century, the New York State Legislature in Albany, the state capitol, adopted the drink, serving it liberally at all social occasions through the rest of the nineteenth century and until Prohibition.”[8-583]
The symbiosis was similar in the further development of the Pousse Café. The French custom of drinking liqueurs met American traditions and they were blended together to create something new, or should we say layered? However, we would like to object: the custom of layering is probably originally German, but it was refined in the USA.
Even back then, bartenders wanted to show off their skills. Even back then, there was such a thing as flair bartending. Jerry Thomas became famous for the Blue Blazer, which involved tipping flaming liquid back and forth from one cup to another. So why not demonstrate your skill by layering different colored liqueurs in a glass?
There were obviously different styles in the preparation of the Pousse Café early on. A newspaper from 1873 reports that American mixed drinks were served at the World’s Fair in Vienna. These included “pousse cafe (New York style), pousse cafe (New Orleans)”, [3] unfortunately without defining exactly how the two differed.
A look at Jerry Thomas’ book, published in 1862, may provide an explanation. He lists three Pousse Cafés. One was by Joseph Santini from New Orleans, the other by François Faivre, who ran a saloon in New York.He also describes a Parisian pousse café:
Jerry Thomas: How to Mix Drinks. 1862, page 65. [5-65]
“162. Santina’s Pousse Cafe. (Use small wine-glass.) This delicious drink is from a recipe by SANTINA, proprietor of “Santina’s Saloon,” a celebrate Spanish Café, in New Orleans. 1/3 brandy (Cognac). 1/3 maraschino. 1/3 Curaçoa. Mix well.
163. Parisian Pousse Cafe. (Use small wine-glass.) 2/5 Curaçoa. 2/5 Kirschwasser. 1/5 Chartreuse. This is a celebrated Parisian drink
164. Faivre’s Pousse Cafe. (Use small wine-glass.) 1/3 Parisian pousse café (as above). 1/3 Kirschwasser. 1/3 Curaçoa. This celebrated drink is from the recipe of M. Faivre, a popular proprietor of a “French Saloon” in New York.« [5-65]
None of these drinks is described as a layered drink. Perhaps Jerry Thomas wrote down his recipes sloppily, or perhaps he didn’t know exactly what a Pousse Café was supposed to be? While Jerry Thomas still writes that everything should be mixed well for Santina’s Pousse Café, Harry Johnson is more specific and writes each time that it should be layered. Harry Johnson’s recipes are as follows:
Harry Johnson: New and Improved Bartender’s Manual. 1882, page 35-36. [6-35][6-36]
“67. Pousse Cafe. (Use a sherry wine glass.) In mixing the above drink, which is a beverage drank by the French as a great favorite, and also has become a favorite in this country, it must be mixed very carefully, as there are several liquors required in the preparation of this drink, and should be made in a manner that each portion will be separated from each other, therefore, I would suggest, that there would be used a sherry wine glass for pouring in the liquors, instead of a tea-spoon, it has a better appearance and takes less time; mix as follows: One-sixth glass of raspberry syrup; One-sixth glass of Marachino; One-sixth glass of Vanilla; One-sixth glass of Curacao (red); One-sixth glass of Chartreuse (yellow); One-sixth glass of brandy; according to the above ingredients you will have your glass filled.”[6-35][6-36]
Harry Johnson: New and Improved Bartender’s Manual. 1882, page 54. [6-54]
“128. Santinas Pousse Cafe. (Use a sherry wine glass.) One-third wine glass of Marachino; One-third glass of Curacao (red); One-third wine glass of French brandy and serve. This drink is generally indulged in after partaking ofa cup of black coffee, and attention must be paid to prevent the different liquors from running into each other.” [6-54]
Harry Johnson: New and Improved Bartender’s Manual. 1882, page 59. [6-59]
“144 Faivre’s Pousse Cafe. (Use a sherry nine glass.) One-third of a glass of Benedictine; One-third of a glass of Curacao (red); One-third of a glass of Kirschwasser; 2 or 3 drops of bitters (Angostura); and serve. Attention must be paid to prevent the different colors from running into each other, but have each a separate appearance.” [6-59]
Based on these recipes, we cannot really determine whether a pousse café from New York differed significantly from one from New Orleans, except that different liqueurs were used – but even that is nothing unusual, the possibilities are numerous.
It is interesting to note that Harry Johnson writes that the Pousse Café is delicious after a coffee, or even after a lunch. This was the custom, apparently also in the USA.
It is possible that the liqueur layering tradition was a German invention, as this also happened with the Knickebein. Together with the German emigrants, their liqueur culture also reached the USA. So it could well be that the layering of liqueurs in the Pousse Café goes back to a German influence. When considering this question, it should not be forgotten that not only was French culture rooted in New Orleans, but that the city also had a large German population. [8-357]
Robert F. Moss also suspects that the layering of the Pousse Café was due to the large number of German immigrants working as bartenders in the USA, especially as there was a long tradition of layering spirits in Germany. [8-555]
The influence of the Germans on American bar culture is undisputed, as the mixing of drinks has a long tradition in Germany in particular. Punch was already widespread there at the beginning of the 18th century. German punch makers developed their own recipes and variations. The German traditions of alcohol consumption meant that German bartenders were very successful in the USA. [8-313] However, the Germans not only prepared bowls, but also a number of shots (a so called ‘Kurzer’). A Kurzer is an un-iced alcoholic drink, pure or as a mixture of spirits, bitters and liqueurs, served in 2 cl or 4 cl glasses and usually drunk in one go. [8-476][9] In the mid-19th century, there was massive German immigration to the USA, and the emigrants brought this culture with them. With them, a variety of liqueurs, bitters and syrups reached the American bar. [8-476]
One curiosity is certainly the American patent granted in 1907 for a pousse café machine that prepares a pousse café when a coin is inserted. [7] DFrom this we can deduce that the Pousse Café must have been quite popular.The Pousse Café underwent further refinements in the USA. Some recipes call for the top layer of brandy to be set alight. [8-555]
In the early 20th century, the number of layers increased. Six to seven layers became standard, but it is also reported that eleven to 14 layers were prepared as showpieces for the bartender’s art. [8-555]
During Prohibition, Pousse Cafés were hardly ever drunk, but after Prohibition ended, it once again became a permanent fixture in the American bar. In the decades following the Second World War, it disappeared more and more and became irrelevant. [8-555] In 1972, a correspondent wrote: “I remember when bars used to serve a fascinating drink called a Pousse-café. … You never see them any more.”[8-555][8-556] Nevertheless, there were places where the Pousse Café was still being prepared. In New Orleans, Nick Castrogiovanni from Nick’s Big Train Bar became locally famous for making dozens of them every night and even preparing 34-layer Pousse Cafés. [8-556]
Over time, it was forgotten that many mixed drinks that we still know today were originally prepared in layers as a Pousse Café. These include the Grashopper, [8-333] or the B&B, which can be traced back to Hamburg-Altona.
Epilogue
The Pousse Café has been unjustly forgotten. Sure, it’s usually a sweet affair, but aren’t there occasions when that’s exactly what you want, such as after a coffee to round off a multi-course meal, as a kind of dessert? We should also remember that some of the drinks we mix today were originally layered drinks, i.e. Pousse Cafés. These include the B&B and the Grashopper, for example.
I would also like to take up the cudgels for the Knickebein. Certainly, it has a hard time these days, because the raw egg yolk is simply too challenging for many people. But the taste is worth it. I’ll never forget the time I made myself a Golden Slipper out of historical interest – a layering of yellow chartreuse, egg yolk and Gdansk gold water. At the time, I wrote: “The Goldwasser harmonises wonderfully with the yellow Chartreuse. And then, at the end, when the egg yolk bursts in the mouth and the contents mix with the yellow Chartreuse, you notice again how perfectly the flavours go together. The combination of these three ingredients shows a very great mastery. … What at first glance may seem almost disgusting and unbalanced, sometimes turns out to be a little gem, a masterfully composed layered drink. One must not be prejudiced, but must consciously engage with some historical conventions in order to discover something new.”
And then, when you have a Pousse Café or Knickebein in front of you, and a little time to contemplate it, you might remember this series and think about the socio-cultural background of these categories of drink, from the first coffee consumption in Yemen, the Ottoman and French coffee house culture, the coffee house as a place of news, the cradle of journalism, where the Enlightenment was born and revolutionary history was written, the salon culture not only in France but throughout Europe, which was so important for the emancipation of women, the history of liqueur and sugar and the past omnipresence in French and German everyday life. What a drink steeped in history!
David Wondrich: Punch. ISBN 978-0-399-53616-8. New York, 2010.
Jerry Thomas: How to Mix Drinks, Or, The Bon-vivant’s Companion, Containing Clear and Reliable Directions for Mixing All the Beverages Used in the United States, Together with the Most Popular British, French, German, Italian, Russian, and Spanish Recipes, Embracing Punches, Juleps, Cobblers, Etc., Etc., Etc., in Endless Variety. To Which is Appended a Manual For The Manufacture of Cordials, Liquors, Fancy Syrups, Etc., Etc., After the Most Approved Methods Now Used in the Destillation of Liquors and Beverages, Designed For the Special Use of Manufacturers and Dealers in Wines and Spirits, Grocers, Tavern-Keepers, and Private Families, the Same Being Adapted to the Tteade of The United States and Canadas. The Whole Containing Over 600 Valuable Recipes by Christian Schultz. New York, Dick & Fitzgerald, 1862.
Harry Johnson: New and Improved Bartender’s Manual or: How to Mix Drinks of the Present Style And Containing a Valuable List of Instructions and Hints of the Author in Reference to Attending Bar, and also a Large List of Mix-Drinks Together With a Complete List of Bar Utensils, Wines, Liquors, Ales, Mixtures, Etc. Ab Seite 77: Practisches, Neues und Verbessertes Handbuch für Barkeeper, Salon- und Hotelbesitzer, Küfer, Weinbauer, Hausfrauen etc. enthaltend practische Winke und Anweisungen für Barkeeper, vollkommen correcte Rezepte aller gemischten Getränke der gegenwärtigen Zeit, Listen sämmtlicher Bar-Artikeln und Utensilien, Regeln zur Behandlung von Liquors, Bier, Ale, Porter, Wein und Cider in Fässern sowohl als auch Flaschen, etc., etc., mit einem Anhang der Anleitung zur Erzeugung von Wein und Cider. New York, Samisch & Goldmann, 1882.
It can be assumed that the Pousse Café was drunk in Louisiana early on as part of French culture. If we disregard the confirmation by Jerry Thomas in 1862, then we found the first evidence of its presence in New Orleans in 1869: “The Creoles always call the small glass of liquor, or liqueur, at the end of the dinner, pousse-café.” [2-378]
This is an important clue, because it means that the Pousse Café was ubiquitous in New Orleans – and it was probably there that the Pousse Café was developed into an alcoholic layered drink in its own right.
We have already quoted from the letter according to which an English-speaking captain in 1851 advised that for the best possible Chasse Café – i.e. Pousse Café – a liqueur glass should be filled two-thirds full with Curaçao and then topped with kirsch. [1-1] Interestingly, we were unable to find any such custom in French sources. It therefore seems likely that such layering is something that was developed outside France. As explained in the post about the Knickebein, there is much to suggest that this happened in Germany.
David Wondrich believes that the use of liqueurs, even in mixed drinks, goes back to a French influence and notes: “The use of liqueurs and syrups was another Parisian limonadier’s speciality. What Regent’s Punch contributes to the art of mixing drinks isn’t novelty, it’s taste. Whoever first compounded it took the best ideas of the old English and | 234 | new French traditions and wove them together seamlessly into a complex, admittedly fancy Punch that was nonetheless heady and utterly intoxicating, without any of the technical challenges of Punch à la Romaine. … Before long, like most appurtenances of the British high life, Regent’s Punch was in common use in New York. Edgar Allan Poe’s Gentleman’s Magazine observed in 1839 that it was ›long the fashionable tipple at the symposius of the elite,‹ and that was true whichever side of the Atlantic you were on.” [4-233] [4-234]
In the Oxford Companion, David Wondrich writes that there are three early recipes, one of which dates back to 1820 and was written by Philippe Wattier, who was responsible for preparing punch in the Prince’s household. He notes: “It is also worth noting that Wattier was from Metz, since Regent’s Punch displays many of the prismatic characteristics of French and German Punch making of the late eighteenth century, where the sweet, sour, strong, and weak elements of punch are each divided between several ingredients. Indeed, Regent’s Punch acted as a vector for such ideas, and for ingredients such as curaçao, maraschino, and champagne to enter British and American mixology. In fact, it enjoyed a longer career in America than it did in Britain, where it quickly faded in the face of Queen Victoria’s disapproval of the heavy-drinking ways of her predecessors and their cronies, although it was still occasionally sold as a pre-bottled speciality through the 1880s. In New York, on the other hand, Regent’s Punch was particularly appreciated. In the 1820s, William Niblo’s rendition of the drink helped him to become the city’s leading caterer. Later in the century, the New York State Legislature in Albany, the state capitol, adopted the drink, serving it liberally at all social occasions through the rest of the nineteenth century and until Prohibition.” [8-583]
The symbiosis was similar in the further development of the Pousse Café. The French custom of drinking liqueurs met American traditions and they were blended together to create something new, or should we say layered? However, we would like to object: the custom of layering is probably originally German, but it was refined in the USA.
Even back then, bartenders wanted to show off their skills. Even back then, there was such a thing as flair bartending. Jerry Thomas became famous for the Blue Blazer, which involved tipping flaming liquid back and forth from one cup to another. So why not demonstrate your skill by layering different colored liqueurs in a glass?
There were obviously different styles in the preparation of the Pousse Café early on. A newspaper from 1873 reports that American mixed drinks were served at the World’s Fair in Vienna. These included “pousse cafe (New York style), pousse cafe (New Orleans)”, [3] unfortunately without defining exactly how the two differed.
A look at Jerry Thomas’ book, published in 1862, may provide an explanation. He lists three Pousse Cafés. One was by Joseph Santini from New Orleans, the other by François Faivre, who ran a saloon in New York.He also describes a Parisian pousse café:
“162. Santina’s Pousse Cafe. (Use small wine-glass.) This delicious drink is from a recipe by SANTINA, proprietor of “Santina’s Saloon,” a celebrate Spanish Café, in New Orleans. 1/3 brandy (Cognac). 1/3 maraschino. 1/3 Curaçoa. Mix well.
163. Parisian Pousse Cafe. (Use small wine-glass.) 2/5 Curaçoa. 2/5 Kirschwasser. 1/5 Chartreuse. This is a celebrated Parisian drink
164. Faivre’s Pousse Cafe. (Use small wine-glass.) 1/3 Parisian pousse café (as above). 1/3 Kirschwasser. 1/3 Curaçoa. This celebrated drink is from the recipe of M. Faivre, a popular proprietor of a “French Saloon” in New York.« [5-65]
None of these drinks is described as a layered drink. Perhaps Jerry Thomas wrote down his recipes sloppily, or perhaps he didn’t know exactly what a Pousse Café was supposed to be? While Jerry Thomas still writes that everything should be mixed well for Santina’s Pousse Café, Harry Johnson is more specific and writes each time that it should be layered. Harry Johnson’s recipes are as follows:
“67. Pousse Cafe. (Use a sherry wine glass.) In mixing the above drink, which is a beverage drank by the French as a great favorite, and also has become a favorite in this country, it must be mixed very carefully, as there are several liquors required in the preparation of this drink, and should be made in a manner that each portion will be separated from each other, therefore, I would suggest, that there would be used a sherry wine glass for pouring in the liquors, instead of a tea-spoon, it has a better appearance and takes less time; mix as follows: One-sixth glass of raspberry syrup; One-sixth glass of Marachino; One-sixth glass of Vanilla; One-sixth glass of Curacao (red); One-sixth glass of Chartreuse (yellow); One-sixth glass of brandy; according to the above ingredients you will have your glass filled.” [6-35] [6-36]
“128. Santinas Pousse Cafe. (Use a sherry wine glass.) One-third wine glass of Marachino; One-third glass of Curacao (red); One-third wine glass of French brandy and serve. This drink is generally indulged in after partaking ofa cup of black coffee, and attention must be paid to prevent the different liquors from running into each other.” [6-54]
“144 Faivre’s Pousse Cafe. (Use a sherry nine glass.) One-third of a glass of Benedictine; One-third of a glass of Curacao (red); One-third of a glass of Kirschwasser; 2 or 3 drops of bitters (Angostura); and serve. Attention must be paid to prevent the different colors from running into each other, but have each a separate appearance.” [6-59]
Based on these recipes, we cannot really determine whether a pousse café from New York differed significantly from one from New Orleans, except that different liqueurs were used – but even that is nothing unusual, the possibilities are numerous.
It is interesting to note that Harry Johnson writes that the Pousse Café is delicious after a coffee, or even after a lunch. This was the custom, apparently also in the USA.
It is possible that the liqueur layering tradition was a German invention, as this also happened with the Knickebein. Together with the German emigrants, their liqueur culture also reached the USA. So it could well be that the layering of liqueurs in the Pousse Café goes back to a German influence. When considering this question, it should not be forgotten that not only was French culture rooted in New Orleans, but that the city also had a large German population. [8-357]
Robert F. Moss also suspects that the layering of the Pousse Café was due to the large number of German immigrants working as bartenders in the USA, especially as there was a long tradition of layering spirits in Germany. [8-555]
The influence of the Germans on American bar culture is undisputed, as the mixing of drinks has a long tradition in Germany in particular. Punch was already widespread there at the beginning of the 18th century. German punch makers developed their own recipes and variations. The German traditions of alcohol consumption meant that German bartenders were very successful in the USA. [8-313] However, the Germans not only prepared bowls, but also a number of shots (a so called ‘Kurzer’). A Kurzer is an un-iced alcoholic drink, pure or as a mixture of spirits, bitters and liqueurs, served in 2 cl or 4 cl glasses and usually drunk in one go. [8-476] [9] In the mid-19th century, there was massive German immigration to the USA, and the emigrants brought this culture with them. With them, a variety of liqueurs, bitters and syrups reached the American bar. [8-476]
One curiosity is certainly the American patent granted in 1907 for a pousse café machine that prepares a pousse café when a coin is inserted. [7] DFrom this we can deduce that the Pousse Café must have been quite popular.The Pousse Café underwent further refinements in the USA. Some recipes call for the top layer of brandy to be set alight. [8-555]
In the early 20th century, the number of layers increased. Six to seven layers became standard, but it is also reported that eleven to 14 layers were prepared as showpieces for the bartender’s art. [8-555]
During Prohibition, Pousse Cafés were hardly ever drunk, but after Prohibition ended, it once again became a permanent fixture in the American bar. In the decades following the Second World War, it disappeared more and more and became irrelevant. [8-555] In 1972, a correspondent wrote: “I remember when bars used to serve a fascinating drink called a Pousse-café. … You never see them any more.” [8-555] [8-556] Nevertheless, there were places where the Pousse Café was still being prepared. In New Orleans, Nick Castrogiovanni from Nick’s Big Train Bar became locally famous for making dozens of them every night and even preparing 34-layer Pousse Cafés. [8-556]
Over time, it was forgotten that many mixed drinks that we still know today were originally prepared in layers as a Pousse Café. These include the Grashopper, [8-333] or the B&B, which can be traced back to Hamburg-Altona.
Epilogue
The Pousse Café has been unjustly forgotten. Sure, it’s usually a sweet affair, but aren’t there occasions when that’s exactly what you want, such as after a coffee to round off a multi-course meal, as a kind of dessert? We should also remember that some of the drinks we mix today were originally layered drinks, i.e. Pousse Cafés. These include the B&B and the Grashopper, for example.
I would also like to take up the cudgels for the Knickebein. Certainly, it has a hard time these days, because the raw egg yolk is simply too challenging for many people. But the taste is worth it. I’ll never forget the time I made myself a Golden Slipper out of historical interest – a layering of yellow chartreuse, egg yolk and Gdansk gold water. At the time, I wrote: “The Goldwasser harmonises wonderfully with the yellow Chartreuse. And then, at the end, when the egg yolk bursts in the mouth and the contents mix with the yellow Chartreuse, you notice again how perfectly the flavours go together. The combination of these three ingredients shows a very great mastery. … What at first glance may seem almost disgusting and unbalanced, sometimes turns out to be a little gem, a masterfully composed layered drink. One must not be prejudiced, but must consciously engage with some historical conventions in order to discover something new.”
And then, when you have a Pousse Café or Knickebein in front of you, and a little time to contemplate it, you might remember this series and think about the socio-cultural background of these categories of drink, from the first coffee consumption in Yemen, the Ottoman and French coffee house culture, the coffee house as a place of news, the cradle of journalism, where the Enlightenment was born and revolutionary history was written, the salon culture not only in France but throughout Europe, which was so important for the emancipation of women, the history of liqueur and sugar and the past omnipresence in French and German everyday life. What a drink steeped in history!
Sources
explicit capitulum
*