This is a summary of the presentations given at the 1st Forum on Bar Culture on 9 March 2026: (1) The bar – what we can learn from the past. (2) The interior design of the American Bar. (3) Max Kettner – the bartender at the Eden Hotel. A search for clues. (4) Swingtime in Berlin’s bars. (5) A drink as a time capsule – reconstruction of the ‘Adlon Spezial’ (1928).
The Bar – What we can learn from the past
Armin Zimmermann, Hanover
A deep understanding of culture, history and the underlying science is essential for mastering the art of cocktail-making and leaving a lasting impression on guests.
Classic recipes form the foundation: only those who understand them and their ingredients, the respective mixing ratios and preparation techniques within their historical context can use them as a blueprint and develop them creatively. Modern techniques such as Rotovap or sous-vide serve merely as a supplement if high-quality ingredients are not available.
Excellent cocktails are characterised by quality, taste and the guest’s experience. Perfection of taste is not achieved through absolute theoretical precision, but arises from the ‘perfection of the imperfect’: subtle variations bring a mixed drink to life, making it exciting and emotionally moving. Analogies from architecture and music illustrate that beauty and balance arise only through the finest of variations. It is only through a sensory understanding of each ingredient – its ‘timbre’ – that the mixture can be perfectly harmonised.
Recipes are like musical scores: historical research, a sensitive interpretation of traditions and years of practice enable an authentic rendition, whilst at the same time leaving room for personal interpretation.
Only those who understand the rules of the old masters and the workings of the sense of taste can achieve true mastery. This requires years of practice. The first step is to master the seemingly simple two- and three-ingredient combinations before moving on to more complex mixtures.
At the turn of the 19th to the 20th century, the rapid growth of global trade and ever-closer international ties also brought about changes in the major hotels. The leading establishments in the German Empire sought to offer what was customary in the USA and Great Britain. Grand hotels in Berlin, Munich and Aachen created a large entrance hall, which one entered from the street through the so-called ‘American’ revolving door. In addition to a dining room for hotel guests and a restaurant for visitors from the city, the culinary offerings of leading hotels since the turn of the century also included a bar where, following the Anglo-American model, a barman mixed drinks behind a bar counter and in front of a mirrored wall lined with bottles. The décor of the bars was as exquisite as the hotels themselves, and this was reported in newspapers and magazines.
The lecture uses selected examples to illustrate how American bars were furnished and equipped: from the small bar counter at the main staircase of a hotel to the large bar area with special lighting effects and an adjoining grill room for the quick consumption of small cold and hot dishes. In the grand hotels, the interior design was often the work of renowned architects, with the designs executed by well-known court cabinetmakers such as Pössenbacher in Munich. Incidentally, American bars also existed outside luxury hotels from the very beginning. They were a feature of upmarket restaurants, but also popular independent venues catering to a diverse clientele.
Dr. Maren-Sophie Fünderich. Foto: Landesarchiv Berlin/Grönboldt.
Max Kettner – the bartender at the Eden Hotel. A search for clues.
Dr. Michael C. Bienert, Berlin
To date, mixology has paid little attention to the bartenders of the past who were the creators behind these liquid concoctions. Apart from a few prominent mixologists, very little is known about these individuals. Using the example of Max Kettner (1888–1945), who ran the famous bar at the Eden Hotel in west Berlin during the interwar period, this lecture highlights the great potential offered by biographical research. Thanks to the digitisation of historical newspapers, recipe books and other documents, a wealth of sources is now available that provide important insights. It quickly becomes clear that the reconstruction of bartenders’ life stories reflects many political and cultural-historical contexts of fundamental importance.
The early traces of the “bar biography” of Berlin-born Max Kettner lead to Cologne in the period following the First World War. During the years when the British, French, Americans and Belgians occupied the area on the left bank of the Rhine, the cathedral city served as a major source of inspiration for bar culture in Germany. This had a direct influence on Kettner’s professional career. After moving to the Eden Hotel in 1928, ‘Jimmy’ achieved a degree of fame thanks to his talent and a keen instinct for dealing with guests and the media. His reputation extended far beyond the city limits of Berlin. Finally, the lecture provides an overview of Kettner’s recipes and raises the question of the extent to which his drinks differed from the prevailing ‘Berlin style’.
Dr. Michael Bienert. Foto: Landesarchiv Berlin/Grönboldt.
Swingtime in Berlin’s bars
Stephan Wuthe, Berlin
During the interwar period, a diverse bar culture developed in Berlin, catering to the growing demand for modern entertainment. Essentially, three distinct trends can be identified here: whilst elegant grand hotels, such as the Adlon or Eden, opened their exclusive halls for the newly emerging 5 o’clock tea and its accompanying dance, monumental dance halls, such as the Femina or Moka Efti, offered large-scale entertainment. In parallel, from the late 1920s onwards, intimate bars modelled on the Parisian style became established, focusing on atmosphere, cocktails and modern jazz performances.
A distinctive feature of the era was the close intertwining of the catering industry and the music industry: record companies benefited from long-term engagements of renowned orchestras and soloists in Berlin venues by printing their names on record labels as a seal of quality – such as: ‘Kurt Hohenberger with his soloist orchestra from the Quartier Latin, Berlin’. This, in turn, made these venues famous throughout Europe.
Venues such as the elegant Bar Frasquita served as popular entertainment spots and developed their own distinctive styles, such as a cocktail hour that was unique in Berlin at the time. The exclusive Bar Ciro and the Art Deco-style Patria offered a space for nocturnal revelry and jazz music. Here, one could consciously escape the ideological pressure of the Nazi regime. These establishments were thus far more than mere drinking venues; they served as social havens and centres of a modern, internationally connected entertainment culture.
„So wunderbar wie in der Wunderbar, wo man so wunderbar sich unterhält…“ (Die Wunderbar, Robert Katscher, 1930)
[“As wonderful as in the Wunderbar, where one converses so wonderfully…” (Die Wunderbar, Robert Katscher, 1930)]
Stephan Wuthe. Foto: Landesarchiv Berlin/Grönboldt.
A drink as a time capsule – Reconstructing the ‘Adlon Spezial’ (1928)
Andreas und Jenny Berg, Freiburg i.Br.
The interpretation of old drinks has a great deal in common with the historical performance practice of classical music: the recipe is not a rigid formula, but a score that only comes to life through the study of sources and a dedication to craftsmanship.
Taking the Berlin “Adlon Spezial” from 1928 as an example, it becomes clear that an authentic recreation goes far beyond simply mixing ingredients. Only by deciphering historical terminology – such as correctly identifying what was meant by “French vermouth” – is it possible to precisely capture the spirit of the Golden Twenties.
Forum Barkultur. Foto: Landesarchiv Berlin/Grönboldt.
From a historical perspective, the Adlon’s former house drink proves to be a surprising ‘marriage’: it combines the American bar classics ‘Martini’ and ‘Fix’, blending the genres of ‘Cocktail’ and ‘Punch’ into a new taste experience. This historical reconstruction never claims to have the final say on the past, but sees itself as an ongoing exploration of a fluid cultural heritage.
By revitalising the historical substance, however, we succeed in rescuing the “Adlon Special” from a purely archival perspective and bringing it back into our culture of enjoyment. The long-forgotten house drink is far more than a mere reminiscence: back in the bar, this grand hotel classic once again captivates with its intellectual integrity of flavour.
Andreas Berg und Jenny Berg. Foto: Landesarchiv Berlin/Grönboldt.
The Bar – What we can learn from the past
Armin Zimmermann, Hanover
A deep understanding of culture, history and the underlying science is essential for mastering the art of cocktail-making and leaving a lasting impression on guests.
Classic recipes form the foundation: only those who understand them and their ingredients, the respective mixing ratios and preparation techniques within their historical context can use them as a blueprint and develop them creatively. Modern techniques such as Rotovap or sous-vide serve merely as a supplement if high-quality ingredients are not available.
Excellent cocktails are characterised by quality, taste and the guest’s experience. Perfection of taste is not achieved through absolute theoretical precision, but arises from the ‘perfection of the imperfect’: subtle variations bring a mixed drink to life, making it exciting and emotionally moving. Analogies from architecture and music illustrate that beauty and balance arise only through the finest of variations. It is only through a sensory understanding of each ingredient – its ‘timbre’ – that the mixture can be perfectly harmonised.
Recipes are like musical scores: historical research, a sensitive interpretation of traditions and years of practice enable an authentic rendition, whilst at the same time leaving room for personal interpretation.
Only those who understand the rules of the old masters and the workings of the sense of taste can achieve true mastery. This requires years of practice. The first step is to master the seemingly simple two- and three-ingredient combinations before moving on to more complex mixtures.
Interior design of the American bar
Dr. Maren-Sophie Fünderich, Bielefeld
At the turn of the 19th to the 20th century, the rapid growth of global trade and ever-closer international ties also brought about changes in the major hotels. The leading establishments in the German Empire sought to offer what was customary in the USA and Great Britain. Grand hotels in Berlin, Munich and Aachen created a large entrance hall, which one entered from the street through the so-called ‘American’ revolving door. In addition to a dining room for hotel guests and a restaurant for visitors from the city, the culinary offerings of leading hotels since the turn of the century also included a bar where, following the Anglo-American model, a barman mixed drinks behind a bar counter and in front of a mirrored wall lined with bottles. The décor of the bars was as exquisite as the hotels themselves, and this was reported in newspapers and magazines.
The lecture uses selected examples to illustrate how American bars were furnished and equipped: from the small bar counter at the main staircase of a hotel to the large bar area with special lighting effects and an adjoining grill room for the quick consumption of small cold and hot dishes. In the grand hotels, the interior design was often the work of renowned architects, with the designs executed by well-known court cabinetmakers such as Pössenbacher in Munich. Incidentally, American bars also existed outside luxury hotels from the very beginning. They were a feature of upmarket restaurants, but also popular independent venues catering to a diverse clientele.
Max Kettner – the bartender at the Eden Hotel. A search for clues.
Dr. Michael C. Bienert, Berlin
To date, mixology has paid little attention to the bartenders of the past who were the creators behind these liquid concoctions. Apart from a few prominent mixologists, very little is known about these individuals. Using the example of Max Kettner (1888–1945), who ran the famous bar at the Eden Hotel in west Berlin during the interwar period, this lecture highlights the great potential offered by biographical research. Thanks to the digitisation of historical newspapers, recipe books and other documents, a wealth of sources is now available that provide important insights. It quickly becomes clear that the reconstruction of bartenders’ life stories reflects many political and cultural-historical contexts of fundamental importance.
The early traces of the “bar biography” of Berlin-born Max Kettner lead to Cologne in the period following the First World War. During the years when the British, French, Americans and Belgians occupied the area on the left bank of the Rhine, the cathedral city served as a major source of inspiration for bar culture in Germany. This had a direct influence on Kettner’s professional career. After moving to the Eden Hotel in 1928, ‘Jimmy’ achieved a degree of fame thanks to his talent and a keen instinct for dealing with guests and the media. His reputation extended far beyond the city limits of Berlin. Finally, the lecture provides an overview of Kettner’s recipes and raises the question of the extent to which his drinks differed from the prevailing ‘Berlin style’.
Swingtime in Berlin’s bars
Stephan Wuthe, Berlin
During the interwar period, a diverse bar culture developed in Berlin, catering to the growing demand for modern entertainment. Essentially, three distinct trends can be identified here: whilst elegant grand hotels, such as the Adlon or Eden, opened their exclusive halls for the newly emerging 5 o’clock tea and its accompanying dance, monumental dance halls, such as the Femina or Moka Efti, offered large-scale entertainment. In parallel, from the late 1920s onwards, intimate bars modelled on the Parisian style became established, focusing on atmosphere, cocktails and modern jazz performances.
A distinctive feature of the era was the close intertwining of the catering industry and the music industry: record companies benefited from long-term engagements of renowned orchestras and soloists in Berlin venues by printing their names on record labels as a seal of quality – such as: ‘Kurt Hohenberger with his soloist orchestra from the Quartier Latin, Berlin’. This, in turn, made these venues famous throughout Europe.
Venues such as the elegant Bar Frasquita served as popular entertainment spots and developed their own distinctive styles, such as a cocktail hour that was unique in Berlin at the time. The exclusive Bar Ciro and the Art Deco-style Patria offered a space for nocturnal revelry and jazz music. Here, one could consciously escape the ideological pressure of the Nazi regime. These establishments were thus far more than mere drinking venues; they served as social havens and centres of a modern, internationally connected entertainment culture.
„So wunderbar wie in der Wunderbar,
wo man so wunderbar sich unterhält…“
(Die Wunderbar, Robert Katscher, 1930)
[“As wonderful as in the Wunderbar,
where one converses so wonderfully…”
(Die Wunderbar, Robert Katscher, 1930)]
A drink as a time capsule – Reconstructing the ‘Adlon Spezial’ (1928)
Andreas und Jenny Berg, Freiburg i.Br.
The interpretation of old drinks has a great deal in common with the historical performance practice of classical music: the recipe is not a rigid formula, but a score that only comes to life through the study of sources and a dedication to craftsmanship.
Taking the Berlin “Adlon Spezial” from 1928 as an example, it becomes clear that an authentic recreation goes far beyond simply mixing ingredients. Only by deciphering historical terminology – such as correctly identifying what was meant by “French vermouth” – is it possible to precisely capture the spirit of the Golden Twenties.
From a historical perspective, the Adlon’s former house drink proves to be a surprising ‘marriage’: it combines the American bar classics ‘Martini’ and ‘Fix’, blending the genres of ‘Cocktail’ and ‘Punch’ into a new taste experience. This historical reconstruction never claims to have the final say on the past, but sees itself as an ongoing exploration of a fluid cultural heritage.
By revitalising the historical substance, however, we succeed in rescuing the “Adlon Special” from a purely archival perspective and bringing it back into our culture of enjoyment. The long-forgotten house drink is far more than a mere reminiscence: back in the bar, this grand hotel classic once again captivates with its intellectual integrity of flavour.
explicit capitulum
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