Having examined what is really meant by curaçao oranges, we now turn to the spirit that was made with them and named after them.
The oldest record
We have already mentioned the oldest record of the name Curaçao in connection with oranges. Let us remember that it was written: “CURAÇAOS or CURASSOUWSE-apples, orange apples from Curaςao. Brandy on peels of Curacao apples or on orange peels. Eau de vie on curassau orange peel. CURASSOUWS-VAARDER [CURAÇAO-DRIVERS] Ship or captain going to Curaçao.” [3-173]
P. Marins: Compleet Nederduitsch en Fransch woordenboek, Amsterdam & Dordrecht, 1720, page 173. [3-173]
– “CURAÇAOS of CURASSOUWSE Appelen, Oranje Appelen van Curaςao. Des Oranges de Curassau. Brandewyn op schillen van Curaçaos appelen of op Oranjeschillen. De l’Eau de vie sur de l’ecorce d’Oranges de Curassau. CURASSOUWS-VAARDER, Schip of Schipper op Curaçao vaarende. Vaisseau ou Capitaine allant à Curassau.”[3-173]
Further on in the work it is stated: “Brandy on orange peel, on the peel of Curaçao apples. Made from eau de vie in which the peel of the orange of Curaçao has been soaked.” [3-689]
P. Marins – Compleet Nederduitsch en Fransch woordenboek. Page 689. Amsterdam & Dordrecht, 1720. [3-689]
– “Brandewyn op ORANJE SCHILLEN, op schillen van Curassauwse Appelen. De l’eau de vie dans laquelle a trempe de l’ecorce d’Orange de Curassau.” [3-689]
If one is to be precise, only the orange is referred to here as curaçao, but not the spirit that was produced with it. It is only written that the peels of curaçao oranges and other oranges were macerated in brandy or eau de vie. So we cannot take this entry as proof that there was already a spirit called curaçao in 1720.
About the origin of Curaçao
This meaning of the word “Curaçao” must have originated later, and the oldest evidence we have been able to find dates from around 1800. The edition of the “almanach des gourmands” published in Paris in 1808 gives us more precise information about Curaçao liqueurs: “For some years now Curaçao has been popular, and this popularity continues, although the liqueur is more wholesome than pleasant, suits men better than little mistresses, and aids digestion rather than pleases the palate. This liqueur is made from the peel, or rather the zest, of an aromatic fruit quite similar to the orange, which grows on the island of Curaçao, situated in northern America north of Terre-Ferme at 12 degrees latitude. These dried peels come to us by way of Holland, which owned this island, which the English have had for a very few years. These peels are distilled with excellent brandy, this spirit is mixed with a little laden [i.e. clarified?] syrup and the liqueur is made. At first glance, nothing seems easier than this production; however, it must be difficult, because the good curaçao is not very common. To begin with, the peels of this fruit, whose fragrance and mild bitterness are the main merit of this liqueur, are quite rare, especially since the current war. Many distillers believe they can compensate for this by using orange, lemon, cedrat, Poncire or Bigarrad peels, either singly or mixed. But the taste is quite different: it may be a good liqueur, but it is not curaçao. Secondly, it seems that even if you use the real zest of the fruit, which only grows on the island of Curacao, you cannot always be sure of success. There are difficult proportions so that the degree of bitterness that the liqueur must have is not unpleasant and combines well with its fragrance. Curaçao originated in Flanders, i.e. Tournay , Brussels, Douay, etc., and is still best produced there. The proximity of Holland, which makes it possible to obtain the skins at first hand, the diligence shown there in the production of this liqueur, and the great consumption which prevails in that country, are the reasons for this superiority.” [1-62][1-63][1-64]
– „Depuis quelques années, le Curaçao a pris faveur, et cette faveur se soutient, quoique cette liqueur soit plus salutaire qu’agréable, qu’elle convienne mieux aux hommes qu’aux petites maîtresses, et qu’elle favorise la digestion, plutôt qu’elle ne réjouit le palais. Cette liqueur est composée avec l’écorce, ou plutôt les zestes d’un fruit aromatique, assez semblable à l’orange, qui croit dans l’île de Curaçao, située dans l’Amérique septentrionale, au nord de Terre-Ferme, à 12 degrés de latitude. Ces zestes desséchés nous parviennent par la voie de la Hollande, qui possédoit cette île, dont les Anglais se sont emparés depuis très-peu d’années. On distille ces écorces avec d’excellente eau-de-vie, on mêle cet esprit avec un sirop peu chargé, et la liqueur est faite. Rien au premier coup-d’œil ne paroît plus facile que celte fabrication; il faut cependant qu’il en soit autrement, car le bon Curaçao n’est pas très-commun. D’abord, les zestes de ce fruit, dont le parfum et la douce amertume constituent le principal mérite de cette liqueur, sont assez rares, surtout depuis la guerre actuelle. Un grand nombre de distillateurs croient y suppléer en employant des zestes, soit d’orange, soit de citron, soit de cédrat, soit de poncire, soit de bigarrades, ou séparément, ou mélangés. Mais le goût est fort différent: cela peut former une bonne liqueur, mais ce n’est point du Curaçao. Ensuite, il paroît que, même en employant les véritables zestes du fruit, qui ne croît que dans i’île de Curaçao, l’on n’est pas toujours sûr de réussir. Il y a des proportions assez difficiles à rencontrer, pour que le degré d’amertume que doit avoir cette liqueur, n’offre rien de désagréable, et soit bien combiné avec son parfum. Le Curaçao a pris son origine dans la Flandre, c’est-à-dire, à Tournay , à Bruxelles, à Douay, etc. et c’est encore là qu’on le fabrique le mieux. La proximité de la Hollande, qui permet de tirer de la première main les zestes, l’application que l’on y apporte dans la fabrication de cette liqueur, et la grande consommation qui s’en fait dans le pays, sont les causes de cette supériorité.“ [1-62][1-63][1-64]
It should be mentioned here that the Almanac does call for peels of oranges from Curaçao. However, let us remember the previous part of this series. Peels probably did not come to Europe from there, but similar ones from the surrounding area did. It is certainly important to use the “right” peels, but they probably do not come from Curaçao.
David Wondrich refers to the statement in this almanac that curacao originated in Flanders and notes that some of the oldest mentions of curacao are found in newspaper advertisements from Ghent, from the mid-1790s. Since no further explanation of the term is given, he assumes that the name was common knowledge. [4-210]
The newspaper advertisement was published in the ‘Gazette van Gend’ on 21 July 1796 on page 6. It says: “On Monday, August 1, 1796, a large lot of liqueurs, such as Curasseau, Créme de Canelle, Créme de Barbade, Créme de Fleurs d’Orange, Citronelle, Ratafia de Cérises, &c. will be sold at the Chamber of St. Jooris in Ghent by Jan Apers.” [19]
– “Dat ‘er maendag den 1 Augusti 1796 … op de kamer van St. Jooris binnen Gent, … dor den Stokhouder Jan Apers. zal verkogt worden … eene groote partye Liqueuren, als Curasseau, Créme de Canelle, Créme de Barbade, Créme de Fleurs d’Orange, Citronelle, Ratafia de Cérises, &c.” [19]
In 1855, Pierre Duplais published an important book on liqueur production and distillation. In it, he also discusses the different ways of making a Curaςao – which we will look at in more detail in a separate part of the series – and also makes an important statement. He writes: “Finally, at the beginning of the last century, while the distillers of Montpellier were practising the composition of the liqueur called Eau d’Or, alluding to the drinkable gold of the ancient chemists, the Americans were making the famous lemon ratafia, which they called Crème des Barbades, Dalmatia was making its Maraschino from Zara famous, Amsterdam its Curaçao, and Bordeaux was acquiring a universal reputation for anisette. The doctor Ganis gave us the elixir that bears his name, Colladon of Geneva his Eau Cordiale and Bouillerot invented Huile de Venus.” [13-33]
P. Duplais: Traité de la fabrication des liqueurs. 1855, page 33. [13-33]
– „Enfin, vers le commencement du dernier siècle, tandis que les Distillateurs de Montpellier s’exerçaient à composer la liqueur appelée eau d’or à dessein de faire allusion à l’or potable des anciens chimistes y les Américains fabriquaient le fameux ratafiat de cédrat qu’ils ont appelé crème des Barbades, la Dalmatie faisait connaître son marasquin de Zara, Amsterdam son curaçao, Bordeaux acquiérait une réputation universelle pour l’anisette. Le médecin Ganis nous donnait l’elixir qui porte son nom, Colladon de Genève son eau cordiale et Bouillerot inventait l’huile de Vénus.“ [13-33]
Pierre Duplais, as a knowledgeable distiller, thus tells us that Curaçao was not invented in Flanders at the beginning of the 18th century, but in Amsterdam, or at least that is where its fame originated. The sources we have pointed out fit this statement. The oldest written record of the curaçao orange appeared in a Dutch dictionary in 1720. Nothing follows for a long time, and it is only from around 1810 that advertisements for Curaçao liqueurs appear from scratch. At that time, they must have become fashionable. However, the fact that they were advertised in so many different places practically at the same time suggests that Curaçao already existed before that, practically in secret. Pierre Duplais’ statement is therefore plausible.
Curaçao in France
The 1806 edition of the “almanach des gourmands” names as Curaçao producers in Paris the apothecary M. Folloppe in the rue et porte Saint-Honoré, no. 381, [16-89] and M. Hernu in the rue Neuve-St.-Roch. [16-92][16-93] M. Appert prepares a “très-bon Curaçao“, a very good Curaçao. [16-142]
As early as 1804, the Feuilleton du journal de Paris indicated which goods were offered by M. Appert: “Also to be found in all the depots indicated is the genuine CURACAO d’Hollande“. [14-287]
Feuilleton du journal de Paris, No. 42. 1804. [14-287]
– „On trouvers aussi dans tous les dépôts indiqués, le vrai CURACAO d’Hollande“ [14-287]
J. de la Tynna: Almanach du commerce de Paris. 1811, page 191. [5-191]
Another almanac, published in Paris in 1811, lists Hernu among the distillers as the manufacturer of “curaçao d’Hollande“: “Hernu, et fabr. de curaçao d’Hollande, rue Neuve-S.-Roch, 12.” [5-191] It is thus the case that the name curaçao d’Hollande was obviously understood to mean not only orange peel, but also a spirit. This is confirmed by another book, published in 1814. In it it says: “An abbot from Malabar transforms the waters of the Seine into Curaçao d’Hollande or Madame Amphoux’s liqueur with a few movements of his hand; there it is a captain of dragoons who cures gout; elsewhere it is a flag painter who successfully combats the most incurable diseases.” [17-209]
Journal de médecine, chirurgie, pharmacie, etc. Volume xxxi. 1814, page 209. [17-209]
– „Au moyen de quelques chiquenaudes, un abbé du Malabar change à volonté l’eau de la Seine en curaçao d’Hollande ou en liqueur de madame Amphoux: là, c’est un capitaine de dragons qui guérit la goutte; ailleurs , c’est un peintre d enseignes qui combat avec succès les maladies les moins susceptibles de guérison.“ [17-209]
In the following years, there are repeated advertisements and mentions, so that the impression is also created that the spirit name Curaçao probably only appeared around 1800.
Eward Planta: A new picture of Paris. 1827, page 109. [18-109]
A menu card in a travel guide for Paris from 1827 is interesting, because it gives the price for “Curaçao d’Hollande“, the glass at 1 fr. 0 s., and “Curaçao d’Hernu“, the glass at 0 fr. 10 s.. [18-109]
This is a huge difference in price; we may conclude from this that a “Curaçao d’Hollande” must have been a higher-quality product, perhaps even an import from Holland.
Curaçao in the Netherlands
Around 1810, Curaçao must have been relatively popular, because there were several manufacturers for it in Paris. However, they also existed in the Netherlands.
On 15 November 1806, J. van Haagen from the Groote Hoogstraat in Leeuwarden advertises “Curacao d’orange“. [2]
In 1810 an advertisement appeared in the Leeuwarder Courant: “B. VAN DER MEULEN, genever distiller, maltster and wine merchant etc., at the Vliet near Leeuwarden, advertises; … Double CURACAO, ORANGE CURACAO, … all at 30 Strs. the full bottle.” [11]
– “B. VAN DER MEULEN, Genever Brander, Moutmaker en Koopman in Wynen enz, op het Vliet by Leeuwarden, adverteert; … Dubbelde CURACAO, Oranje CURACAO, … alle à f 30 Strs. de Flesvol.” [11]
This is a very interesting find, because it proves that an orange-coloured Curaçao was also produced by 1810 at the latest. We will discuss the colours of Curaçao separately.
In 1821, a “Curacao bitter” is advertised, available at LEPS & CO in Batavia, Indonesia: “Te koop- Bij LEPS & CO., à contant. … Curacao bitter, 1 doz. halve bottels.” [7]
Of particular importance from our point of view is also an advertisement by Mr. Apothecary v. Harinxma for an orange-coloured Curaçao bitter, because this provides an important indication for the understanding of Campari. We will go into more detail separately on why exactly this is so crucial. In 1830, the Opregte Haarlemsche Courant writes: “The apothecary v. HARINXMA in Leeuwarden hereby informs that he has again supplied Mr. bookseller J. B. van LOGHEM in Haarlem with GOMMA, a very useful remedy for spitting blood, consumption, cough and other chest and stomach ailments, in sealed packets, as well as with the so pleasantly scented and beautifully coloured ORANGE CURAÇAO BITTER and LIFE ELIXIER, at 30 cents a bottle each. All these three articles can also be obtained from Mrs. H. M. GÖBEL at Gravenstraat No. 9, Amsterdam.” [10]
– “De Apotheker v. HARINXMA te Leeuwarden, berigt hiermede dat hij den Heer Boekhandelaar J. B. van LOGHEM te Haarlem, nu weder voorzien heeft van GOMMA, een zoo heizaam middel in Bloedspuwing, Teering, Hoest en andere Borst- en Maagkwalen, in verzegelte pakjes, als ook van het zoo aangenaam gereurig en fraai kleurend ORANJE CURAÇAO BITTER en LEVENS ELIXTER, à 30 Cents elk Flesja. Alle welke 3 zaken mede te bekomen zijn bij Mej. H. M. GÖBEL, in de Gravenstraat No. 9 te Amsterdam.” [10]
In 1830, also in the Opregte Haarlemsche Courant we also read: “A SADDLER JOURNEYMAN, who thoroughly understands his work, desires permanent employment, can immediately enter the service, may please apply preferably in person, otherwise with stamped letters to D, to the bookseller J. B. VON LOGHEM, from whom the well-known GOMMA; LIFE ELIXIER; ORANGE CURAÇAO BITTER, ENGLISH DENTAL, EAU DE COLOGNE; FRECKLES WATER AND OLONOMIC NIGHT LIGHT may be obtained.” [6]
– “Een ZADELMAKERS-KNECHT, zijn werk grondig verstaande, vast werk begerende, kunnende dadelijk in dienst treden, adressere zich liefst in Persoon, of anderzints met gefrankeerde Brieven aan D, bij den Boekhandelaar J. B. VON LOGHEM, te Haarlem, bij wien de gerenomeerde GOMMA; LEVENS ELIXER; ORANJE CURAÇAO BITTER; ENGELSCH TANDMIDDEL; EAU DE COLOGNE; SPROETEN-WATER EN OECONOMISCH NACHT-LICHT te bekomen is.” [6]
In 1832 the Haarlem Courant reports: “ADVICE AND PRECAUTIONS against Cholera, by W: EGELING, Med. physician in Haarlem, 3rd printing, at 10 cents. – Simple Religious Direction in the Presence of Cholera in our Fatherland, by H. POLMAN Az. religious teacher and church-goer at Haarlem, at 10 cents; are published by the bookseller J. B. VAN LOGHEM, at Haarlem, and may be obtained at the same prices from the booksellers about Oud Nederland. From the above. Also available from the factory of Mr. Harinxma, apothecary in Leeuwarden: The famous Gomma; the much sought after Cholera Powder; the newly shipped Vinum Saluture; the much sought after Elixir of Life and the pleasant Orange Curaçao; and the preventive against Cholera, by J. Overduin, apothecary and chemist in Breda.” [9]
Opregte Haarlemsche Courant, 13. October 1832. [9]
– “RAADGEVINGEN EN VOORBEHOEDINGEN tegen de Cholera, door W: EGELING, Med. Doctor te Haarlem, derde Druk, à 10 Centen. – Eenvoudig Godsdienstig Bestuur bij het bestaan der Cholera in ons Vaderland, door H. POLMAN Az., Onderwijzer in de Godsdienst en Kranbezoeker te Haarlem, à 10 Centen; zijn bij den Boekhandelaar J. B. VAN LOGHEM, te Haarlem, uitgegeven, en bij de Heeren Boekhandelaars door Oud Nederland tot dezefde prijzen te bekomen. Bij bovenden. Uitgeven is mede uit de Fabrijk van den Heer Harinxma, Apotheker te Leeuwarden, te bekomen: De gerenomeerde Gomma; de welgezochte Cholera-Poeder; de nieuwlings ingezondene Vinum Saluture; het veel geëischt worende Levens-Elixer, en de aangename Oranje-Curaçao; alsmede het Voorbehoedmiddel tegen de Cholera, van J. Overduin, Apotheker en Chimist te Breda.” [9]
Anonymus: Catalogus der Algemeene nationale tentoonstelling. 1861, page 45-46. [12-45][12-46]
1861 is mentioned in an exhibition catalogue: „P. Hoppe, te Amsterdam. … dubbele amsterdamsche curaçao“ [12-45] und „D. Oolgaard en Zoon, te Harlingen. … Dubbele oranje curaçao.“ [12-46]
Anonymus: Verslag over de nederlandsche afdeeling op de Internationale Tentoonstelling te Philadelphia 1876, Seite 10-11. [8-10][8-11]
In 1876, the Netherlands exhibits Curaçao at the World’s Fair in Philadelphia by P. Hoppe, Amsterdam. Wijnand Focking, Amsterdam. Erven Lucas Bols, Amsterdam. H. Bootz, Amsterdam. Levert en Co., Amsterdam. M. P. Pollen en Zoon, Rotterdam. [8-10][8-11]
Curaçao in Germany
However, Curaçao was not only something that was popular in the Netherlands and France, but also in Germany. In 1829, for example, in Frankfurt, and we are only mentioning a few suppliers and advertisements here:
“Sale of all kinds of finest liqueurs … Allerheiligengasse Lit. B No. 243. … Curaçoa, … à 40 kr. pr. bottle with glass. … genuine Dutch Anisette, Curaçao and Genevre … à 52 kr. pr. and with jug.” [15-13.1.1829]
Intelligenz-Blatt der freien Stadt Frankfurt. 13. January 1829. [15-13.1.1829]
– “Verkauf aller Sorten feinster Liqueurs … Allerheiligengasse Lit. B No. 243. … Curaçoa, … à 40 kr. pr. Bout. mit Glas. … ächt holländischen Anisette, Curaçao und Genevre … à 52 kr. pr. und mit Krug.”[15-13.1.1829]
“Fine French Liqueurs, as … double Curaçao, …. I have received for sale at fl. 1. 23 kr. a bottle. … Heinr. Christoph Goez at Saalgasse I 69.” [15-23.10.1829]
Intelligenz-Blatt der freien Stadt Frankfurt. 23. October 1829. [15-23.10.1829]
– “Feine französische Liqueurs, als … double Curaçao, … habe ich zum Verkauf erhalten à fl. 1. 23 kr. die Bouteille. … Heinr. Christoph Goez in der Saalgasse I 69.” [15-23.10.1829]
“Curaçao d’Indes … at Georg Rottenstein’s, entrance of Wedelgasse Lit. J No. 156.” [15-23.10.1829]
Intelligenz-Blatt der freien Stadt Frankfurt. 23. October 1829 #2. [15-23.10.1829]
– “Curaçao d’Indes … bey Georg Rottenstein, Eingangs der Wedelgasse Lit. J No. 156.” [15-23.10.1829]
“Franz Behaghel, Großer Kornmarkt F No. 13, recommends his stock of the following articles for your kind acceptance: … Fine Liqueur: Curaçao d’Indes, … à fl. 1. 12 kr. pr. Bouteille, holl. dubb. Curaçao, … à fl. 2. 30 kr. pr. Bout.” [15-30.10.1829]
Intelligenz-Blatt der freien Stadt Frankfurt. 30. October 1829. [15-30.10.1829]
– “Franz Behaghel, großer Kornmarkt F No. 13, empfiehlt sein Lager von nachstehenden Artikeln zu geneigter Abnahme: … Feine Liqueure: Curaçao d’Indes, … à fl. 1. 12 kr. pr. Bouteille, holl. dubb. Curaçao, … à fl. 2. 30 kr. pr. Bout.” [15-30.10.1829]
“real holl. Curaçao … fl. 1. 24 kr. … Curaçao … à 40 kr. pr. Bout. … Peter Schnell, Döngesgasse nächst der Fahrgasse H 160.” [15-29.12.1829]
Intelligenz-Blatt der freien Stadt Frankfurt. 29. December 1829. [15-29.12.1829]
– “ächten holl. Curaçao … fl. 1. 24 kr. … Curaçao … à 40 kr. pr. Bout. … Peter Schnell, Döngesgasse nächst der Fahrgasse H 160.” [15-29.12.1829]
“Dutch double white anisette and [double] orange curaçao … are continuously available at cheap prices at Ammelburg and Sons behind the cathedral.” [15-29.12.1829]
Intelligenz-Blatt der freien Stadt Frankfurt. 29. December 1829 #2. [15-29.12.1829]
– “Holländischer doppelter weißer Anisette und [doppelter] orange Curaçao … sind zu billigen Preisen fortwährend zu haben bei Ammelburg und Söhne hinterm Dom.” [15-29.12.1829]
“Blasius Bauer von Rastadt, moves into the fair with … bitter curaçao … His vault is at the entrance of the Ziegelgasse at Mr. ecclesiastical councilor Marr No. 59.” [15-16.4.1829]
Intelligenz-Blatt der freien Stadt Frankfurt. 16. April 1829. [15-16.4.1829]
– „Blasius Bauer von Rastadt, beziehet die Messe mit … bittern Curaçao … Sein Gewölbe ist am Eingang der Ziegelgasse bey herrn geistlichen Rath Marr No. 59.“ [15-16.4.1829]
“Curaçao in bottles, fine seasoned goods, is sold quite cheaply to clean it up Lit. H. No. 16.” [15-27.11.1829]
Intelligenz-Blatt der freien Stadt Frankfurt. 27. November 1829. [15-27.11.1829]
– “Curaçao in Bout., feine abgelagerte Waare, wird um damit aufzuräumen ganz billig verkauft Lit. H. No. 16.” [15-27.11.1829]
There were many suppliers of Curaçao in Frankfurt at that time. There was Curaçao, Dutch Curaçao, double Curaçao, Curaçao d’Indes, orange Curaçao, bitter Curaçao.
Conclusion
A spirit with the name ‘Curaçao’ appeared around 1800. There is much to suggest that Amsterdam is its origin, that it then became widespread in Flanders and that it was finally produced in neighbouring countries such as France and Germany by many liqueur manufacturers. There were obviously many different types of curaçao, because it was offered with different names.
Before we go into more detail about these varieties on the basis of recipes that have been handed down, we should also take a look at the colours in which Curaçao was available. The next article in this series will be dedicated to this topic.
https://archive.org/details/traitdesliqueur00duplgoog P. Duplais: Traité des liqueurs et de la distillation des alcools ou le liquoriste & le distillateur modernes contenant les procédés les pluis nouveaux pour la fabrication des liqueurs françaises et étrangères; fruits à l’eau-de-vie et au sucre; sirops, conserves, eaux, esprits parfumées, vermouts et vins de liqueur; ainsi que la description complète des operations necessaires pour la distillation de tous les alcools. Tome premier. Versailes & Paris, 1855.
https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=hvd.32044011752250&view=1up&seq=161&q1=curacao Eward Planta: A new picture of Paris; or, the stranger’s guide to the French metropolis; accurately describing the public establishments, remarcable edifices, places of amusement, and every other object worthy of attention. … Fifteenth edition, considerably enlarged. London, 1827.
The oldest record
We have already mentioned the oldest record of the name Curaçao in connection with oranges. Let us remember that it was written: “CURAÇAOS or CURASSOUWSE-apples, orange apples from Curaςao. Brandy on peels of Curacao apples or on orange peels. Eau de vie on curassau orange peel. CURASSOUWS-VAARDER [CURAÇAO-DRIVERS] Ship or captain going to Curaçao.” [3-173]
– “CURAÇAOS of CURASSOUWSE Appelen, Oranje Appelen van Curaςao. Des Oranges de Curassau. Brandewyn op schillen van Curaçaos appelen of op Oranjeschillen. De l’Eau de vie sur de l’ecorce d’Oranges de Curassau. CURASSOUWS-VAARDER, Schip of Schipper op Curaçao vaarende. Vaisseau ou Capitaine allant à Curassau.” [3-173]
Further on in the work it is stated: “Brandy on orange peel, on the peel of Curaçao apples. Made from eau de vie in which the peel of the orange of Curaçao has been soaked.” [3-689]
– “Brandewyn op ORANJE SCHILLEN, op schillen van Curassauwse Appelen. De l’eau de vie dans laquelle a trempe de l’ecorce d’Orange de Curassau.” [3-689]
If one is to be precise, only the orange is referred to here as curaçao, but not the spirit that was produced with it. It is only written that the peels of curaçao oranges and other oranges were macerated in brandy or eau de vie. So we cannot take this entry as proof that there was already a spirit called curaçao in 1720.
About the origin of Curaçao
This meaning of the word “Curaçao” must have originated later, and the oldest evidence we have been able to find dates from around 1800. The edition of the “almanach des gourmands” published in Paris in 1808 gives us more precise information about Curaçao liqueurs: “For some years now Curaçao has been popular, and this popularity continues, although the liqueur is more wholesome than pleasant, suits men better than little mistresses, and aids digestion rather than pleases the palate. This liqueur is made from the peel, or rather the zest, of an aromatic fruit quite similar to the orange, which grows on the island of Curaçao, situated in northern America north of Terre-Ferme at 12 degrees latitude. These dried peels come to us by way of Holland, which owned this island, which the English have had for a very few years. These peels are distilled with excellent brandy, this spirit is mixed with a little laden [i.e. clarified?] syrup and the liqueur is made. At first glance, nothing seems easier than this production; however, it must be difficult, because the good curaçao is not very common. To begin with, the peels of this fruit, whose fragrance and mild bitterness are the main merit of this liqueur, are quite rare, especially since the current war. Many distillers believe they can compensate for this by using orange, lemon, cedrat, Poncire or Bigarrad peels, either singly or mixed. But the taste is quite different: it may be a good liqueur, but it is not curaçao. Secondly, it seems that even if you use the real zest of the fruit, which only grows on the island of Curacao, you cannot always be sure of success. There are difficult proportions so that the degree of bitterness that the liqueur must have is not unpleasant and combines well with its fragrance. Curaçao originated in Flanders, i.e. Tournay , Brussels, Douay, etc., and is still best produced there. The proximity of Holland, which makes it possible to obtain the skins at first hand, the diligence shown there in the production of this liqueur, and the great consumption which prevails in that country, are the reasons for this superiority.” [1-62] [1-63] [1-64]
– „Depuis quelques années, le Curaçao a pris faveur, et cette faveur se soutient, quoique cette liqueur soit plus salutaire qu’agréable, qu’elle convienne mieux aux hommes qu’aux petites maîtresses, et qu’elle favorise la digestion, plutôt qu’elle ne réjouit le palais. Cette liqueur est composée avec l’écorce, ou plutôt les zestes d’un fruit aromatique, assez semblable à l’orange, qui croit dans l’île de Curaçao, située dans l’Amérique septentrionale, au nord de Terre-Ferme, à 12 degrés de latitude. Ces zestes desséchés nous parviennent par la voie de la Hollande, qui possédoit cette île, dont les Anglais se sont emparés depuis très-peu d’années. On distille ces écorces avec d’excellente eau-de-vie, on mêle cet esprit avec un sirop peu chargé, et la liqueur est faite. Rien au premier coup-d’œil ne paroît plus facile que celte fabrication; il faut cependant qu’il en soit autrement, car le bon Curaçao n’est pas très-commun. D’abord, les zestes de ce fruit, dont le parfum et la douce amertume constituent le principal mérite de cette liqueur, sont assez rares, surtout depuis la guerre actuelle. Un grand nombre de distillateurs croient y suppléer en employant des zestes, soit d’orange, soit de citron, soit de cédrat, soit de poncire, soit de bigarrades, ou séparément, ou mélangés. Mais le goût est fort différent: cela peut former une bonne liqueur, mais ce n’est point du Curaçao. Ensuite, il paroît que, même en employant les véritables zestes du fruit, qui ne croît que dans i’île de Curaçao, l’on n’est pas toujours sûr de réussir. Il y a des proportions assez difficiles à rencontrer, pour que le degré d’amertume que doit avoir cette liqueur, n’offre rien de désagréable, et soit bien combiné avec son parfum. Le Curaçao a pris son origine dans la Flandre, c’est-à-dire, à Tournay , à Bruxelles, à Douay, etc. et c’est encore là qu’on le fabrique le mieux. La proximité de la Hollande, qui permet de tirer de la première main les zestes, l’application que l’on y apporte dans la fabrication de cette liqueur, et la grande consommation qui s’en fait dans le pays, sont les causes de cette supériorité.“ [1-62] [1-63] [1-64]
It should be mentioned here that the Almanac does call for peels of oranges from Curaçao. However, let us remember the previous part of this series. Peels probably did not come to Europe from there, but similar ones from the surrounding area did. It is certainly important to use the “right” peels, but they probably do not come from Curaçao.
David Wondrich refers to the statement in this almanac that curacao originated in Flanders and notes that some of the oldest mentions of curacao are found in newspaper advertisements from Ghent, from the mid-1790s. Since no further explanation of the term is given, he assumes that the name was common knowledge. [4-210]
The newspaper advertisement was published in the ‘Gazette van Gend’ on 21 July 1796 on page 6. It says: “On Monday, August 1, 1796, a large lot of liqueurs, such as Curasseau, Créme de Canelle, Créme de Barbade, Créme de Fleurs d’Orange, Citronelle, Ratafia de Cérises, &c. will be sold at the Chamber of St. Jooris in Ghent by Jan Apers.” [19]
– “Dat ‘er maendag den 1 Augusti 1796 … op de kamer van St. Jooris binnen Gent, … dor den Stokhouder Jan Apers. zal verkogt worden … eene groote partye Liqueuren, als Curasseau, Créme de Canelle, Créme de Barbade, Créme de Fleurs d’Orange, Citronelle, Ratafia de Cérises, &c.” [19]
In 1855, Pierre Duplais published an important book on liqueur production and distillation. In it, he also discusses the different ways of making a Curaςao – which we will look at in more detail in a separate part of the series – and also makes an important statement. He writes: “Finally, at the beginning of the last century, while the distillers of Montpellier were practising the composition of the liqueur called Eau d’Or, alluding to the drinkable gold of the ancient chemists, the Americans were making the famous lemon ratafia, which they called Crème des Barbades, Dalmatia was making its Maraschino from Zara famous, Amsterdam its Curaçao, and Bordeaux was acquiring a universal reputation for anisette. The doctor Ganis gave us the elixir that bears his name, Colladon of Geneva his Eau Cordiale and Bouillerot invented Huile de Venus.” [13-33]
– „Enfin, vers le commencement du dernier siècle, tandis que les Distillateurs de Montpellier s’exerçaient à composer la liqueur appelée eau d’or à dessein de faire allusion à l’or potable des anciens chimistes y les Américains fabriquaient le fameux ratafiat de cédrat qu’ils ont appelé crème des Barbades, la Dalmatie faisait connaître son marasquin de Zara, Amsterdam son curaçao, Bordeaux acquiérait une réputation universelle pour l’anisette. Le médecin Ganis nous donnait l’elixir qui porte son nom, Colladon de Genève son eau cordiale et Bouillerot inventait l’huile de Vénus.“ [13-33]
Pierre Duplais, as a knowledgeable distiller, thus tells us that Curaçao was not invented in Flanders at the beginning of the 18th century, but in Amsterdam, or at least that is where its fame originated. The sources we have pointed out fit this statement. The oldest written record of the curaçao orange appeared in a Dutch dictionary in 1720. Nothing follows for a long time, and it is only from around 1810 that advertisements for Curaçao liqueurs appear from scratch. At that time, they must have become fashionable. However, the fact that they were advertised in so many different places practically at the same time suggests that Curaçao already existed before that, practically in secret. Pierre Duplais’ statement is therefore plausible.
Curaçao in France
The 1806 edition of the “almanach des gourmands” names as Curaçao producers in Paris the apothecary M. Folloppe in the rue et porte Saint-Honoré, no. 381, [16-89] and M. Hernu in the rue Neuve-St.-Roch. [16-92] [16-93] M. Appert prepares a “très-bon Curaçao“, a very good Curaçao. [16-142]
As early as 1804, the Feuilleton du journal de Paris indicated which goods were offered by M. Appert: “Also to be found in all the depots indicated is the genuine CURACAO d’Hollande“. [14-287]
– „On trouvers aussi dans tous les dépôts indiqués, le vrai CURACAO d’Hollande“ [14-287]
Another almanac, published in Paris in 1811, lists Hernu among the distillers as the manufacturer of “curaçao d’Hollande“: “Hernu, et fabr. de curaçao d’Hollande, rue Neuve-S.-Roch, 12.” [5-191] It is thus the case that the name curaçao d’Hollande was obviously understood to mean not only orange peel, but also a spirit. This is confirmed by another book, published in 1814. In it it says: “An abbot from Malabar transforms the waters of the Seine into Curaçao d’Hollande or Madame Amphoux’s liqueur with a few movements of his hand; there it is a captain of dragoons who cures gout; elsewhere it is a flag painter who successfully combats the most incurable diseases.” [17-209]
– „Au moyen de quelques chiquenaudes, un abbé du Malabar change à volonté l’eau de la Seine en curaçao d’Hollande ou en liqueur de madame Amphoux: là, c’est un capitaine de dragons qui guérit la goutte; ailleurs , c’est un peintre d enseignes qui combat avec succès les maladies les moins susceptibles de guérison.“ [17-209]
In the following years, there are repeated advertisements and mentions, so that the impression is also created that the spirit name Curaçao probably only appeared around 1800.
A menu card in a travel guide for Paris from 1827 is interesting, because it gives the price for “Curaçao d’Hollande“, the glass at 1 fr. 0 s., and “Curaçao d’Hernu“, the glass at 0 fr. 10 s.. [18-109]
This is a huge difference in price; we may conclude from this that a “Curaçao d’Hollande” must have been a higher-quality product, perhaps even an import from Holland.
Curaçao in the Netherlands
Around 1810, Curaçao must have been relatively popular, because there were several manufacturers for it in Paris. However, they also existed in the Netherlands.
On 15 November 1806, J. van Haagen from the Groote Hoogstraat in Leeuwarden advertises “Curacao d’orange“. [2]
In 1810 an advertisement appeared in the Leeuwarder Courant: “B. VAN DER MEULEN, genever distiller, maltster and wine merchant etc., at the Vliet near Leeuwarden, advertises; … Double CURACAO, ORANGE CURACAO, … all at 30 Strs. the full bottle.” [11]
– “B. VAN DER MEULEN, Genever Brander, Moutmaker en Koopman in Wynen enz, op het Vliet by Leeuwarden, adverteert; … Dubbelde CURACAO, Oranje CURACAO, … alle à f 30 Strs. de Flesvol.” [11]
This is a very interesting find, because it proves that an orange-coloured Curaçao was also produced by 1810 at the latest. We will discuss the colours of Curaçao separately.
In 1821, a “Curacao bitter” is advertised, available at LEPS & CO in Batavia, Indonesia: “Te koop- Bij LEPS & CO., à contant. … Curacao bitter, 1 doz. halve bottels.” [7]
Of particular importance from our point of view is also an advertisement by Mr. Apothecary v. Harinxma for an orange-coloured Curaçao bitter, because this provides an important indication for the understanding of Campari. We will go into more detail separately on why exactly this is so crucial. In 1830, the Opregte Haarlemsche Courant writes: “The apothecary v. HARINXMA in Leeuwarden hereby informs that he has again supplied Mr. bookseller J. B. van LOGHEM in Haarlem with GOMMA, a very useful remedy for spitting blood, consumption, cough and other chest and stomach ailments, in sealed packets, as well as with the so pleasantly scented and beautifully coloured ORANGE CURAÇAO BITTER and LIFE ELIXIER, at 30 cents a bottle each. All these three articles can also be obtained from Mrs. H. M. GÖBEL at Gravenstraat No. 9, Amsterdam.” [10]
– “De Apotheker v. HARINXMA te Leeuwarden, berigt hiermede dat hij den Heer Boekhandelaar J. B. van LOGHEM te Haarlem, nu weder voorzien heeft van GOMMA, een zoo heizaam middel in Bloedspuwing, Teering, Hoest en andere Borst- en Maagkwalen, in verzegelte pakjes, als ook van het zoo aangenaam gereurig en fraai kleurend ORANJE CURAÇAO BITTER en LEVENS ELIXTER, à 30 Cents elk Flesja. Alle welke 3 zaken mede te bekomen zijn bij Mej. H. M. GÖBEL, in de Gravenstraat No. 9 te Amsterdam.” [10]
In 1830, also in the Opregte Haarlemsche Courant we also read: “A SADDLER JOURNEYMAN, who thoroughly understands his work, desires permanent employment, can immediately enter the service, may please apply preferably in person, otherwise with stamped letters to D, to the bookseller J. B. VON LOGHEM, from whom the well-known GOMMA; LIFE ELIXIER; ORANGE CURAÇAO BITTER, ENGLISH DENTAL, EAU DE COLOGNE; FRECKLES WATER AND OLONOMIC NIGHT LIGHT may be obtained.” [6]
– “Een ZADELMAKERS-KNECHT, zijn werk grondig verstaande, vast werk begerende, kunnende dadelijk in dienst treden, adressere zich liefst in Persoon, of anderzints met gefrankeerde Brieven aan D, bij den Boekhandelaar J. B. VON LOGHEM, te Haarlem, bij wien de gerenomeerde GOMMA; LEVENS ELIXER; ORANJE CURAÇAO BITTER; ENGELSCH TANDMIDDEL; EAU DE COLOGNE; SPROETEN-WATER EN OECONOMISCH NACHT-LICHT te bekomen is.” [6]
In 1832 the Haarlem Courant reports: “ADVICE AND PRECAUTIONS against Cholera, by W: EGELING, Med. physician in Haarlem, 3rd printing, at 10 cents. – Simple Religious Direction in the Presence of Cholera in our Fatherland, by H. POLMAN Az. religious teacher and church-goer at Haarlem, at 10 cents; are published by the bookseller J. B. VAN LOGHEM, at Haarlem, and may be obtained at the same prices from the booksellers about Oud Nederland. From the above. Also available from the factory of Mr. Harinxma, apothecary in Leeuwarden: The famous Gomma; the much sought after Cholera Powder; the newly shipped Vinum Saluture; the much sought after Elixir of Life and the pleasant Orange Curaçao; and the preventive against Cholera, by J. Overduin, apothecary and chemist in Breda.” [9]
– “RAADGEVINGEN EN VOORBEHOEDINGEN tegen de Cholera, door W: EGELING, Med. Doctor te Haarlem, derde Druk, à 10 Centen. – Eenvoudig Godsdienstig Bestuur bij het bestaan der Cholera in ons Vaderland, door H. POLMAN Az., Onderwijzer in de Godsdienst en Kranbezoeker te Haarlem, à 10 Centen; zijn bij den Boekhandelaar J. B. VAN LOGHEM, te Haarlem, uitgegeven, en bij de Heeren Boekhandelaars door Oud Nederland tot dezefde prijzen te bekomen. Bij bovenden. Uitgeven is mede uit de Fabrijk van den Heer Harinxma, Apotheker te Leeuwarden, te bekomen: De gerenomeerde Gomma; de welgezochte Cholera-Poeder; de nieuwlings ingezondene Vinum Saluture; het veel geëischt worende Levens-Elixer, en de aangename Oranje-Curaçao; alsmede het Voorbehoedmiddel tegen de Cholera, van J. Overduin, Apotheker en Chimist te Breda.” [9]
1861 is mentioned in an exhibition catalogue: „P. Hoppe, te Amsterdam. … dubbele amsterdamsche curaçao“ [12-45] und „D. Oolgaard en Zoon, te Harlingen. … Dubbele oranje curaçao.“ [12-46]
In 1876, the Netherlands exhibits Curaçao at the World’s Fair in Philadelphia by P. Hoppe, Amsterdam. Wijnand Focking, Amsterdam. Erven Lucas Bols, Amsterdam. H. Bootz, Amsterdam. Levert en Co., Amsterdam. M. P. Pollen en Zoon, Rotterdam. [8-10] [8-11]
Curaçao in Germany
However, Curaçao was not only something that was popular in the Netherlands and France, but also in Germany. In 1829, for example, in Frankfurt, and we are only mentioning a few suppliers and advertisements here:
“Sale of all kinds of finest liqueurs … Allerheiligengasse Lit. B No. 243. … Curaçoa, … à 40 kr. pr. bottle with glass. … genuine Dutch Anisette, Curaçao and Genevre … à 52 kr. pr. and with jug.” [15-13.1.1829]
– “Verkauf aller Sorten feinster Liqueurs … Allerheiligengasse Lit. B No. 243. … Curaçoa, … à 40 kr. pr. Bout. mit Glas. … ächt holländischen Anisette, Curaçao und Genevre … à 52 kr. pr. und mit Krug.” [15-13.1.1829]
“Fine French Liqueurs, as … double Curaçao, …. I have received for sale at fl. 1. 23 kr. a bottle. … Heinr. Christoph Goez at Saalgasse I 69.” [15-23.10.1829]
– “Feine französische Liqueurs, als … double Curaçao, … habe ich zum Verkauf erhalten à fl. 1. 23 kr. die Bouteille. … Heinr. Christoph Goez in der Saalgasse I 69.” [15-23.10.1829]
“Curaçao d’Indes … at Georg Rottenstein’s, entrance of Wedelgasse Lit. J No. 156.” [15-23.10.1829]
– “Curaçao d’Indes … bey Georg Rottenstein, Eingangs der Wedelgasse Lit. J No. 156.” [15-23.10.1829]
“Franz Behaghel, Großer Kornmarkt F No. 13, recommends his stock of the following articles for your kind acceptance: … Fine Liqueur: Curaçao d’Indes, … à fl. 1. 12 kr. pr. Bouteille, holl. dubb. Curaçao, … à fl. 2. 30 kr. pr. Bout.” [15-30.10.1829]
– “Franz Behaghel, großer Kornmarkt F No. 13, empfiehlt sein Lager von nachstehenden Artikeln zu geneigter Abnahme: … Feine Liqueure: Curaçao d’Indes, … à fl. 1. 12 kr. pr. Bouteille, holl. dubb. Curaçao, … à fl. 2. 30 kr. pr. Bout.” [15-30.10.1829]
“real holl. Curaçao … fl. 1. 24 kr. … Curaçao … à 40 kr. pr. Bout. … Peter Schnell, Döngesgasse nächst der Fahrgasse H 160.” [15-29.12.1829]
– “ächten holl. Curaçao … fl. 1. 24 kr. … Curaçao … à 40 kr. pr. Bout. … Peter Schnell, Döngesgasse nächst der Fahrgasse H 160.” [15-29.12.1829]
“Dutch double white anisette and [double] orange curaçao … are continuously available at cheap prices at Ammelburg and Sons behind the cathedral.” [15-29.12.1829]
– “Holländischer doppelter weißer Anisette und [doppelter] orange Curaçao … sind zu billigen Preisen fortwährend zu haben bei Ammelburg und Söhne hinterm Dom.” [15-29.12.1829]
“Blasius Bauer von Rastadt, moves into the fair with … bitter curaçao … His vault is at the entrance of the Ziegelgasse at Mr. ecclesiastical councilor Marr No. 59.” [15-16.4.1829]
– „Blasius Bauer von Rastadt, beziehet die Messe mit … bittern Curaçao … Sein Gewölbe ist am Eingang der Ziegelgasse bey herrn geistlichen Rath Marr No. 59.“ [15-16.4.1829]
“Curaçao in bottles, fine seasoned goods, is sold quite cheaply to clean it up Lit. H. No. 16.” [15-27.11.1829]
– “Curaçao in Bout., feine abgelagerte Waare, wird um damit aufzuräumen ganz billig verkauft Lit. H. No. 16.” [15-27.11.1829]
There were many suppliers of Curaçao in Frankfurt at that time. There was Curaçao, Dutch Curaçao, double Curaçao, Curaçao d’Indes, orange Curaçao, bitter Curaçao.
Conclusion
A spirit with the name ‘Curaçao’ appeared around 1800. There is much to suggest that Amsterdam is its origin, that it then became widespread in Flanders and that it was finally produced in neighbouring countries such as France and Germany by many liqueur manufacturers. There were obviously many different types of curaçao, because it was offered with different names.
Before we go into more detail about these varieties on the basis of recipes that have been handed down, we should also take a look at the colours in which Curaçao was available. The next article in this series will be dedicated to this topic.
Sources
explicit capitulum
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