The maceration and distillation of bitter orange peel goes far back into the past. Such recipes must be regarded as precursors for a curaçao. Because of the simplicity of the recipe, one can even postulate that these recipes were also nothing other than a curaçao, even if they were not called that. What recipes were there? What was such a distillate used for? What healing properties were attributed to the bitter orange? That is what we will deal with in this part. Finally, we explain to you why a bitter orange eau de vie should be used as a curaçao in the preparation.
15th century
The “Gart der Gesundheit” (“Garden of Health”) is one of the first printed herbal books in German. It was published in Mainz in 1458 by Peter Schöffer, a former employee of Johannes Gensfleisch, known as Gutenberg. It is one of the most important late medieval works on medicinal plants. [45]
The 327th chapter is about the bitter orange. The text is not always clear to us today. It says that the seed quenches thirst and is good for sick people. The peel drives away “the ſterblich venyn”, i.e. helps with poisoning. [43-231][44-cccxxvii] And if pregnant women ate the flesh of the bitter orange, it would drive away the “evil air”, whatever one imagines by that. [44-cccxxvii]
– “Poma citrina citrin epphel Cap. cccxxvii . Pma citrina larine Die meiſter sprechē das diß ſint oͤpphel vnd haben eyn vnderſcheyt mit den granat oͤppheln als du den geleſen haſt das capitel granatū . Vn̄ hie iſt zuͤ mercken als Yſaac ſpricht das diß citrin oͤpphel han vierley an yn . Das erst iſt die ſchal das ander das fleyſch . das dritte das marck . das vierde iſt der ſame . vnd der iglichs hait eyn ſunder natuer an ym . Die ſchal iſt heyß vnd drücken an dem zweyten grad . Das fleyſch hie von iſt kalt vnd fuͤücht an dē erſten grade vnd ſyn kelt iſt men wan ſyn füchtikeyt Das marck iſt zuͤ viel ſubtil vnd hait nit füchtigkeyt . Der ſame iſt ſis erecht vnd von natuer kalt vnd fücht an dem zweyten grade . Dißer ſame hait macht den dorſt zuͤ leſchen vn̄ iſt guͤt krancken luden . Die ſchale mit wyn gedrūckē verdrybt das ſterblich venyn . Das fleyſch zuͤ eßen iſt nit guͤt vnd ſunderlich die kalt magen hant . Das marck hie von ist wenig nutz dē menſchen wan es gar wenig fuͤdet . Paulus ſpricht das die frauwen die ſchwanger ſynt dißes fleyſch vō diſſem apphel geßen verdrybt yn die boͤsen geluft .” [44-cccxxvii]
The “Gart der Gesundheit” was also reprinted in the same year by Hans Schönsperger in Augsburg. Here, however, one finds a different text.
– “Poma appfe = cäp . cccxxv = POmū latine = | Die meiſter ſprechē gemeinlich dz manigerleÿ oͤpffel ſind = eins teils ſeȳ genant poma cetonia = etlich poma citri vō dē wir in diſem = cap = ſagen = etlich poma arācie / etlich poma granata = etlich poma paradiſi = etlich ſeind genant poma ethiopia = etlich poma maciana = | Rabi moyſes ſpricht dz oͤpffel vn̄ ſuuḋlich die zamē vō irē guͤtē geruch ſterckē dz hercz vn̄ dz hirn vn̄ ſein guͤt ptiſies dz iſt dÿe dz abnemen haben vn̄ melancolicis = | Auch ſpricht er dz oͤpffel whegeſſn̄ vngenſunḋ ſind dan̄ all anḋ obs = wān ſÿ bringen boͤſe feüchtūg allen glidern | Galienus in dē = vii buͤch genāt ſimpliciū farmacorū in dē 0 capi 0 milia = jd ē pomaria et ē arbor pomorū 0 beſchreibt vns vn̄ ſpricht dz oͤpffel nit habēn ein natur = wān ei teil ſeȳ ſüß ein teil ſaur = ei teil waͤaſſerig ein teil ſind ſcharpf vnd ir ÿegklich hat ir eigen nature = darnach ſÿ ſind / wān ſein ſÿ ſüß ſo ſein ſÿ wārm vn̄ truckē vō natur = ſein ſÿ ſaur ſo ſein ſÿ kalt von nutur = | Galienus ſprichtt = das aller ſafft ḋ oͤpffel ir feüchtikeit nit behalten mügen = on allein malacitonia = das ſind kutten oͤpffel = wān man ir ſafft bereÿtt mit honig vn̄ zucker oḋ anḋ ſpecereÿē ſo wert ſÿ deſter lenger | Poma citri haben auch manigerley natur an inē = wān dÿe ryndē außen darā die iſt heyß vn̄ trncken = die kern inwēdig ſein kalt vn̄ trucken = das mitteil in dē apffel heÿß vnd feücht | Die rinden & oͤppfel dÿe man nennt granat oͤppfel whe geſſen stercken das hercze vnd benemen des herczen zittern = | Die kern in ein waſſer gelegt vnd das waſſer darnach in dem mund gehalten vnd ſenfftigklich eyn genūmē benÿmt dÿe ſcherp[?]ūg ḋ keln = vn̄ des magē aufſtoſſen =” [42-cccxxv]
16th century
In 1500, the ” Kleine Distillierbuch” (Little Distilling Book) by Hieronymus Brunschwig, a wound doctor from Strasbourg, was published. [41] In it, there is no mention of bitter orange. [40]
Eucharius Rößlin, who died in Frankfurt in 1554, was a Frankfurt city physician. [39] In 1533 his herbal book was published, in which he refers to the ‘Gart der Gesundheit’ (Garden of Health), and since he puts the text into more modern German, it becomes more understandable for us. His book also mentions a distillation of bitter orange blossoms. He writes that the “apples”, because of their good smell, strengthen the heart and brain and help the melancholic. They should not be eaten raw, as they are unhealthy. [38-clxv]
– “Epffel. Pomum. Pomum Citri, Pomū Granatū. Poma Maciana, Aethiopiae, Paradyſi. Citrinatoͤpffel. Granatoͤppfel. Pomerantzen. DIe oͤpffel / ſunderlich die zahmenn / ſercken vonn ihres guͤeten geruchs wegen / das herz vnnd hirn / ſeindt guͤt denen die das abnemē haben / auch den Melacholiſchen / oͤpffel rohe geſſen / ſeind vngeſunder dann alles ander obs / dann ſie bringen boͤſe feuchtung allen glidern. Die ſuͤßen ſeind warm vnd trucken von natur / Die ſauren kalt. Aller oͤpffel feuchtigkeyt mag nit behalten werden / on alleyn kütten oͤpffel / bereyt mit honig vnnd zucker oder anderen ſpecereien / wert deſter lenger. Citrinoͤpffel haben auch mancherley natur an ihn / die rind außwendig darann iſt heyß vnd drucken. Die kernen innwendig ſeindt kalt vnd drucken / Vnd das mittel in dem apffel iſt heyß vnd feucht. Granatoͤpffel rinden rohe geſſen / stercken das hertz / benemen hertz zittern, Die kern in ein waſſer geleget / vnnd das waſſer darnach im mund ghalten vnd ſenfftiglich ingeſchlicket / benimpt die ſcherpffe der kelen / bnimpt des magens vffſtoſſen. | Fauler oͤpffelwaſſer. Von den geimpfften ſo ſie faul ſind / bren̄ inbalneo Marie. Diß waſſer iſt guͤt fürn kalten / faulenden brand / der vm̄ſich frißt / vnd außfelt / od der wie er iſt / damit gewaſchen / vn̄ mit eim tuͤch darüber gelegt / morgens vn̄ abends. Das waſſer iſt guͤt für ſchwartze blatern für den wolff / peſtilentziſche Apoſtem vnd geſschwer / zum teg iij.mal mit tuͤchern über gelegt. Das waſſer von zahmen oͤppfeln gebran̄t eh ſie faul werdenn / iſt vaſt guͤtt zeſtercken vnd krefftigen / kuͤlt den leib vnd herz / morgens vnd abends getruncken. | Eppfelbluͤtwaſſer. Die bluͤſt von den geimpfften apffelbaumen / ſo die knoͤpff ſich von einander teylen / tuͤcher vnder den baum geſpreyt / vnnd mit ſtecklin an den baum geſchlagen / die bluͤmē in balneo Marie gebrandt. Das waſſer iſt guͤtt für die roͤte vnd vngestalt des angeſichts / morgens vnd abends damitt gewaſchen / etwa iij. oder iiij. wuchen lang diß gethon / hilfft wol.”[38-clxv]
By the way, a “balneum Mariae” mentioned in the text means a water bath. [37]
Eucharius Rößlin’s Kräuterbuch (Herbal Book) from 1550 says that bitter orange, as well as Limonen (vulgo: lemons) and sweet orange, help against all kinds of things. The peels make you breathe well and help against the evil air of pregnant women – whatever you might think of that. They also drive away vermin and prevent clothes from being eaten by them. By their smell they help against evil air and thus drive away pestilence. They help with all ailments of the stomach, and expel mucus from the intestines. They are also good for the liver. The fruit pulp heals inflamed limbs and, prepared as an ointment, also mange and all hot ulcers. When salted, the fruits strengthen the heart and all internal organs. The juice is made into a sour syrup which strengthens the heart and drives away poison and is also good against evil air and pestilential fever: [7-cxxvii][7-cxxviii]
– “Citrinatoͤpffel. Pomerantzen. … DEr Citrinatenbaum tregt durchs jar über frücht / ſeind lang / runtzlecht / goldfarb / ſtarckes geruchs / kernlin wie byrn / welche in wein getruncken / ſeind guͤt für gifft / vnd treiben den ſtuͤlgang. Krafft vnd Wirkung. Den mund gewaͤſchen mit der bruͤ darinn die kern geſotten / oder mit jrm ſafft / macht einn guͤten athem. Citrinat werden gebraucht wider boͤse lüft der schwangern frawen. Zun kleydern gelegt / verhuͤtens vorn ſchaben und motten. Die rind geſotten mit waſſer / vnd den mund damit gewaͤſchen / macht ein̄ wolriechenden mund.”[7-cxxvii]
– “Dise rinden gelegt zu tuͤchern / nemen keinn ſchaden vonn Schaben oder andern würmen. Der geruch von diſer rinde benimpt den boͤsen lufft / daruon die peſtilentz entſtehen mag. Die rinden Citri ſeind für allen gebreſten des magens guͤt. Treibt auch allen ſchleim auß den daͤrmen. Seind faſt guͤt dem magen vnd leber / das puluer daruon getruncken mit wein. Das marck von diſer frucht heylet die entzündte glider. Trücknet vn̄ heylt die raud. Für diſes magſt du nemen ein ſalb / Vnguentum citrinum genannt / auß der Apotecken. Diß Vnguent geſtrichen / wo die haut am leib abgegangen were / als von gehn / arbeyten / oder jucken / das heylt diſe ſalb. Vnd dienet ſonderlich für alle heyſſe geſchwulſt gleich der weiſſen ſalbe. Mit Vnguento citrino geſchmiert vnderm angeſicht / benimpt die außſetzigkeyt. Eingeſultzte Citrinatoͤppfel geſſen / ſterckts hertz vnd alle innerliche glider. Vom ſafft wirt ein Sirup gemacht in der Apotecken / iſt ſauerlecht / welcher genützt / das herz ſterckt / vnd vertreibtſ gifft darvon / iſt guͤt wider boͤsen lufft vnd peſtilentziſche feber. Zumercken / was von den Citrinaten oder gelben runden oͤpffeln geschribn̄ / soll auch von den ſauren und ſuͤſſen Pomerantzen / vnnd friſchen vngeſaltznen Limonen verſtanden werden / dann ſie ſeind alle einer art.” [7-cxxviii]
The Frenchman Antonio Mizauld died in Paris in 1578. He was an astrologer and physician. [35] The Frenchman Antonio Mizauld died in Paris in 1578. He was an astrologer and physician. [35] In 1577, one of his books, translated into German, was published in Basel with the title “Arztgarten” (“Physician’s Garden”). In it he reports on the sweet and sour bitter orange and lemons as medicines: The bitter orange warms and is therefore very good for quenching the thirst of those suffering from “cold sore”. Lemons syrup helps with bile problems, against pestilence and drives away “poisonous addiction”. The distillate of lemon makes the face beautiful, smoothes wrinkled skin, drives away lichen and blemishes all over the body and also helps against fever when mixed with other syrups. [9-289][9-290][9-291]
– “Pomerantzen vnd Limonien ſampt ihren arzneyen. Aurantia arbor & Limonia. Das zehende Beth. DEr pomerantzen ſind dreyerley geſchlecht / ſuͤſſe / ſawre / vnd bitzelechtige / welche zum theil ſuͤß / zum theil ſawer. Die ſuͤssen haben ein krafft zu waͤrmen. Der andern ſafft keltet / mehr oder weniger / nach geſtalt des ſchmacks / welcher ſuͤſſer oder ſawrer. Es ſind deßhalben die ſawren ſehr gut für den durſt der krancken / welche mit einem kaltenweh beladen ſein. Die rind von allen pomerantzē iſt warm vnnd hitzig / welches der ſchmack bezeuget: denn derſelb iſt herb vnnd bitter. Wo man deßhalbē den ſafft bei einē liecht außtrucket / ſo wirt er leicht angezuͤndet / vnd gibt ſein krafft dem wein am leichteſten von wegen ſeiner duͤnnen ſubſtanz / in ein glaß auch von weitem her geſpritzet. Die limonien ſind ſaͤwer alß die citronen vnd pomerantzen alle ſampt / denn ihr ſafft iſt kelter vnd trockner. Man macht ein ſyrup auß den limonien / mit welchem die ſcharffe gall wirt gelindert / item die peſtilentz vnd gifftig ſucht vertrieben. Das diſtilliert waſſer von limonien iſt gut das angeſicht zu ferben und ſchoͤn zu machē / macht glatt die haut / ſo zuuor runzelechtig geweſen / vertreibt die flechten vnnd mackel in gantzem leib / ob ſie gleich auß dem auſſatz herkommen weren. Mit andern ſyrupen vermiſcht (ſo ſonſten auch gleiche gebrechen vertreibn̄) iſt gut für das geſchwinde und anfallende feber. Solches hab ich offtmals probiret.” [9-289][9-290][9-291]
The distiller Caspar Janszoon Coolhaes published his influential book “Van seeckere seer costelijcke wateren diemen met recht soude mogen noemen” in Amsterdam in 1588. He was born in Cologne in 1536 and was appointed professor in Leiden in the Netherlands in 1574. For him, brandy (distilled from grapes) was superior to a grain spirit, and he complains in his book that grain spirits were considered equivalent. His book is thus the first written evidence that grain brandy was preferred to wine brandy; on the basis of his statement we know that at the latest in the 1580s grain brandy was more important than wine brandy in the Netherlands. [20-194] Grain brandy appeared as early as the 15th century and was first mentioned in 1507 in a text from Nordhausen. [20-312]
In his book, Caspar Janszoon Coolhaes describes on page 22 the “Aqua Anrantiæ: Appel van Aranien ſchillen Water”, the “Orange Peel Water” [19-22][19-23] This is the oldest record we could find for macerated and distilled orange peel. The following is a list of applications, similar to the German-language records of the time, which is why we refrain from quoting the Dutch text here.
Jacobus Theodorus Tabernaemontanus was actually called Jakob Dietrich and came from Bergzabern. He died in Heidelberg in 1590 and was not only a doctor and pharmacist, but also a professor of medicine and botany. [34] His herbal book from 1591 describes the bitter orange tree and states that it grew in Welschland – meaning Italy and France [33] – but was also cultivated in Germany, albeit with great effort, much work and diligence, which is why it was associated with high costs.
– “Das XIIII. Capitel. Von Pomerantzen. Pomerantzen. Malus aurantia. DIe Pomerantzen ſeyn auch auß dem Geſchlecht der Citrinataͤpffel / dann ſie ſich mit der Geſtalt vnnd der Krafft den Citrinaten vergleichen / außgenommen daß ſie runder ſeyn / vnd ſo ſie zeittig worden / gewinnen ſie ein ſchöne goldrote Farb: Der Pomerantzenbaum iſt fuͤr vnnd fuͤr gruͤn / traͤgt auch vber das gantze Jahr ſeine Frucht wie der Citronenbaum. Seine Bletter ſeyn dick / glat / ſpitzig vnd wolriechendt / vergleichen ſich dem Lorbeernlaub. Die Bluͤet iſt weiß vnd wolriechendt. Die Rinde an den Pomerantzen iſt dick vnnd eines bittern Geſchmacks. Sie haben aber nicht einerley Geſchmack / dann etliche ſeyn suͤß / etliche ſauwr / Sie wachſen in Welſchlandt vnnd Franckreich / werden auch in Deutſchlandt mit groſſer Muͤhe / Arbeit / Fleiß vnnd groſſem Vnkoſten aufferzogen.” [36-660]
In this book we also read that a distillate of bitter orange blossom stimulates perspiration and that in Italy it is used for many things because of its good smell, in Spain it is given to women in labour. It is also good for strengthening the heart.
– “Von Pomerantzenbluͤtwaſſer. Matthiolus vermeldet daß man auß der Pomerantzenbluͤet gar ein lieblich wolriechend Waſſer brenne / welches eine ſonderliche gute Krafft habe den Schweiß mit Gewalt zu fuͤrdern. So meldet auch D. Camerarius daß es von wegen ſeines guten Geruchs zu vielen Sachen in Italia gebraucht werde / vnnd in Spanien gebe man es den ſchwangeren Weibern in ein wenig Poleyenwaſſer / wenn sie hart geberen. Wirdt auch fuͤr ein gute Hertzſtaͤrckung gebrauchet.”[36-661]
The Italian Pietro Andrea Mattiolo died in Trento in 1577. He was a doctor, medical writer, botanist and personal physician to the emperor. [32] In 1590, the German translation of his herbal book was published in Frankfurt am Main, expanded with illustrations and further remedies by Joachim Camerarius. He was a city physician in Nuremberg, botanist and naturalist. [31]
This herbal from 1590 describes that sweet bitter orange helps with “diseases of the breast and sides” and with “heated diseases”, strengthens the heart and promotes sleep. [46-80r]
– “Natur / Krafft / vnd Wirckung. … Der Pomerantzen. Die ſuͤſſen Pomerantzen mag man ſicherlich geben in den Kranckheitē der Bruſt vnd Seiten. * Der Safft auß den ſuͤſſen Pomerantzen außgedruckt vnd ein gut truͤncklin davon gegeben / fuͤrdert den Schlaff / fuͤrnemlich mit Veielſaft eingeben / in Pleuricide vnd dergleichen hitzigen Kranckheiten. * Zu den hitzigen / jnnerlichen Fiebern ſindt die ſauren / vn̄ Weinſauren bequemer / dann sie leſchen den Durſt / vnnd vnnatuͤrliche Hitz / laſſen nicht faulen / ſtercken das Hertz / vnd fuͤrdern den Harn.” [46-80r]
Sour bitter orange helps with “stomach worms”. Distilled bitter orange flowers have a diaphoretic effect and are used especially in Italy because it is “useful for many things because of its good smell”. In Spain, it is given to pregnant women during difficult childbirth. But the oil of the peel is also used to make a delicious cordial, which is “useful in many diseases”. The author recommends that bitter orange should not only be found in pharmacies, but also in every kitchen. [46-80v]
– “Wider die Bauchwuͤrme: Nimb ſawre Pomerantzen / ſchneid ſie mitten entzwey / begeuß ſie mit bitterem Mandeloͤl / und brate ſie. Alſo gebraten lege ſie auff den Nabel / oder druck den Safft darauß / gib den zu trincken / es hilfft. Auß der Pomerantzenbluͤt brennet man ein Waſſer / daſ getruncken / treibet den Schweiß gewaltig. * Das deſtillirte Waſſer / auß Pomerantzenbluͤt / wirt ſonderlich fleiſſig in Italia zu Neapoli vnd Luca, da man es Nampham vnd Angelicam nennet / gemacht. Es iſt in vielen Sachen nuͤtzlich zu gebrauchen / von wegen ſeines guten Geruchs. In Hiſpania gibt man es den ſchwangern Weibern / wann ſie hart geberen / ſonderlich mit ein wenig Polley Waſſer vermiſchet. Aber viel kraͤfftiger ist darzu das Oel auß den Schelffen gemacht / welchs auch ſonst ein koͤſtlich Cordiale, vnd in vielen Kranckheiten nuͤtzlich vnnd gut zugebrauchen / erfunden iſt worden. * Die fleiſſigen Apothecker pflegen die Schalen von den Pomerantzen mit Zucker einzumachen / vnd iſt ja ein gesunde Speiſe zu allen kalten Gebreſten deß Magens. Limonien vnd Pomerantzen gehoͤren nicht allein in die Apothecken / ſondern auch in die Kuͤchen.” [46-80v]
In 1597, the ” Neue vollkommene Distillierbuch” (“New Perfect Distilling Book”) was published in Frankfurt am Main. Unfortunately, the title does not mention the author by name, but states that the book was first written by Hieronimus Braunschweigk, then expanded by Walther Hermann Ryff and now revised, corrected and expanded with many illustrations by a lover of the art of distilling. We do not know who the author of this edition is. Perhaps it is a work that was initiated by the editor because of the great demand, and on which many co-authors have collaborated. At least that is how one could interpret the preface.
This book reports on the distillation of bitter orange, citron and lemon blossoms, but with the remark that these blossoms are hardly available, which is why the blossom distillate is imported. Then it is reported that one takes the rinds of bitter orange, citron or lemon and cuts off only the yellow with a small sharp knife, so that one does not use any of the white. These rinds are macerated for several days in a sealed glass in the juice of the fruit, if the distillate is to be colder, or with strong wine, if it is to be hotter, or Maluasier, if it is to be even hotter, or with rectified brandy, if it is to be at its hottest, and then distilled. This distillate is then not so strong or sweet as made with the flowers, but is almost equal in strength and virtue. One may take one or two spoonfuls of it at the appropriate time or add it to one’s daily drink, use it externally or internally, also mixed with sugar.
– “Pomerantzen / Citrinaten / vnd Limonen bluͤt Waſſer. WIewol die bluͤt diſer koſtbarlichen oͤpffel / bey vns / kelte vnnd reuhe halben deß Luffts / frembd vnd nit zubekommen / daß man ſie Diſtilliern moͤchte / ſo hab ich doch ſolchs Waſſer / nit allein deß lieblichen geruchs halben / in welchem es alle einfache Waſſer vbertrifft / ſonder auch der vielfeltigen nutzbarkeit halben / hie melden woͤllen / dan̄ ſolches auff gemeine weiſe gediſtilliert / auch zu vns gebracht wirt / Oder damit du ſolches edlen vnd faſt koſtbarlichen Waſſers nit mangleſt / ſo thu im alſo wie hernach folget: Nimb die Rinden von obgemeldten oͤppfeln / als von Pomerantzen / Citrinaten / oder Limonen / ſchneide mit einem ſcharpffen Meſſerlin allein das gelb herab / daß du von dem weiſſen / welches gar ohn allen geruch iſt / nichts hinweg nemeſt / Solche gelben Rinden eins Apffels inſonderheit oder etliche zuſammen vermiſcht / ſolt du wol in ihrem eignen Safft / ſo du das Waſſer wilt zu kelte geneigt haben / oder in gutem kräfftigen wolriechenden Wein / welche etwas hitziger / oder in Maluaſier / ſo noch hitziger / oder in rectificirtem gebranten Wein / ſo am aller hitzigſten / erbeitzen / vndn etlich tag putreficiern oder digeriern laſſen / doch ſolt du ſolches zusatzes nicht mehr daruͤber gieſſen / denn daß es bloß ein wenig erfeuchtet werde / vnnd man ſolche feuchte kaum spuͤre / laß in einem wol verſtopften Glaß alſo biß zu der zeit der diſtillierung / ſtehn / daß es gar nit verriechen / noch einig Lūfftlin darvon außriechen moͤge / dann ſo ziehe es ſaͤnfftiglich ab / ſo hast du vber die maß ein nuͤtzlich heilſam wolriechend Waſſer / welches / ob es gleich am geruch nicht alſo kraͤfftig oder lieblich als das ſo von den Blumen gediſtillieret wirdt / iſt es ihm doch in der krafft vnd tugent faſt gleich / darvon magſtu auff ein Loͤffel voll oder zwen zu gelegner zeit eingeben / vnnd auch deinen taͤglichen tranck damit vermiſchen / auch euſſerlich vnnd innerlich deß Leibs brauchen / wie folgends gehoͤrt / mit Zucker vermiſcht / oder fuͤr ſich ſelbs eingetruncken.” [10-54 links][10-54 rechts]
This is clearly already a description of a curaçao liqueur: bitter orange peel is macerated, distilled and sugar is added if necessary. And one still uses – as was originally customary – brandy. So a Curaçao was already being produced under a different name in 1597 at the latest.
Since we have already reported on the positive effects of the bitter orange, we will now also report on the application of the distillate, as the book provides detailed information. The internal use helps with poisoning, strengthens the heart, head and brain, refreshes the spirit in faintness and weakness, removes melancholy impurities, sorrow and sadness and thus ensures that the person becomes light-minded, cheerful and courageous. It helps pregnant women, drives away the evil air, strengthens their stomachs and refreshes the foetus. It also helps to abort a dead foetus. It is also good for the stomach and liver and strengthens digestion. For the eyes it is beneficial and brings a squinting face back to its natural shape. [10-54 rechts]
– “Pomerantzen / Citrinaten / vnd Limonenwasser innerhalb in Leib zubrauchen. VOr allen gediſtillierten Waſſern hat diß die krafft vnnd tugent / daß es allem Gifft krefftigen widerstandt thut / vnnd das Herz gewaltiglich darvor beſchirmet / es ſey von eingenommenem Gifft / Peſtilentziſcher vergifftigung / oder ſchaͤdlicher Thier / Gewuͤrm / vnd Ungezifers vergifftigung. Dan̄ das Hertz wirt von dieſem Waſſer / deßgleichen auch das Haupt vnd Hirn / vber die maß wol geſterckt vnd bekrefftiget / vnd die leblichen Geiſter erquickt in aller onmacht vnnd ſchwacheit / es erleutert auch das Gebluͤt von aller Melancholiſchen vnreinigkeit / darvon der Menſch leichtſinnig / froͤlich / vnd mutig wirt / dann es vertreibet allen Melancholiſchen kummer / vnmuth vnd trawrigkeit / von vnbewußter urſach / wirt dieser vnd obgemelter vrsach / in zeit vergifftes Luffts / vnnd Peſtilentziſchen sterblaͤuffen / vber die maß nuͤtzlich gebraucht. So man auch morgens nuͤchtern ein Loͤffel voll dieſes Waſſers / von Blumen oder Rinden der Pomerantzen / Citrinaten / oder Limonen / gediſtilliert / einnimbt / gibts dem Mund vber die maß ein ſuͤſſen lieblichen vnnd faſt guten geruch / vnd behaͤlt den Menſchen / deſſelbigen tags frey vor aller Peſtilentziſcher vergifftung / daß er nit leichtlich inficieret werden mag. So auch einer deß morgens von ſolchem Waſſer getruncken / iſt er folgendes tags ſicher vor Gifft / es ſey von vergiffter Speiß oder gifftiger Thier / Gewuͤrm vnnd Vngezifer biſſz. Diß Wasser hat auch ein ſonderliche eigenſchafft / daß es den ſchwangern Weibern / ſo mit boͤſem vnnatuͤrlichem luft angefochten werden / als zu vnmenſchlicher Speiß vnnd dergleichen / vertreibt es jhnen ſolchen boͤſen luft / bekrefftigt jhnen den Magen / ſaͤubert vnd erquickt die Frucht in Mutter leib. Dann diß Waſſer / wie auch oggemelt / alle trawrigkeit vnd vnmuth hinweg nimbt / von wegen ſeiner krefftigen tugent / das Hertz zustercken vnnd bekrefftigen. Diß Waſſer dienet auch dem Magen vn̄ der Leber inſonderheit / bringt ſie widerumb zurecht / wo die zuſehr erkaltet / oder mit ſchaͤdlicher vberfluͤſſiger feuchten erfuͤllet / sterckt vnnd hilfft der daͤwung / vnnd treibet hinweg ſolche ſchaͤdliche feuchte / die ſich im Magen verſamblet hat. Hat ein ſonderliche treibende krafft / die gebuͤrliche reinigung der Weiber zu fuͤrdern / vnnd die todte Geburt außzutreiben, Das Waſſer ſo von den Blumen oḋ der Rinden in ihrem eignen ſauren Safft erhitziget / dienet den Augen / ſol auch ein ſonderliche krafft haben / das ſchilend Geſicht widerumb in die rechte natuͤrliche geſtalt zubringen / vnd die dicken groben Fell vnd flecken hinweg zutreiben / mit zimlicher eyterung der hitz deß Augſchwerens / vnnd hinweg nemen der vngeſtalten roͤte.” [10-54 rechts][10-55 links]
Used externally, it strengthens the heart and brain due to its lovely smell, but also helps with fainting and weakness. It protects against infection by pestilential air, strengthens digestion, expels tapeworms and is useful in treating bites from poisonous creatures.
– “Pomerantzen / Citrinaten / vnd Limonenbluͤt oder Rindenwaſſer auſſerhalb zubrauchen. WIewol das obgemelt Waſſer von wegen ſeiner vielfaͤltigen tugent / manigfaltiger weiſe / innerhalb vnd auſſerhalb in Leib gebraucht werden mag / ſo hat es doch ſonderliche krafft vnd tugent / deß anmuͤtigen lieblichen geruchs halben / das Hertz vnd Hirn wunderbarlich zuſtercken vnd bekräfftigen / in allen obgemelten gebrechen / als nemlich wider alles vergifft / deßgleichen in onmacht vnnd ſchwachheit / dann ſolches Waſſer von den erfarnen aͤrtzten inſonderheit gebrauchet wirt in alle Epithemata oder Hertzbehungen / ſo man in Peſtilentziſchen Febern vnd andern gebrechen / auſſerhalb mit Leinin oder Seidin tuͤchlin oder Badſchwammen vberlegt. So iſt auch der geruch krefftig vnd gut / den Menſchen vor aller inficierung / vergifftes / ſchaͤdlichs / Peſtilentziſches Luffts / zuverſchonen vnd bewaren. Auff den Magen gelegt / erwermet es denſelben / vnnd ſtercket die daͤwung / treibt auch denjungen Kindern die Wuͤrm auß / vnnd iſt ein sehr krefftige nuͤtzliche Artzney fuͤr aller gifftiger Wuͤrm vnd vngezifer biß / als Schlangen / Scorpion /vnd ander Thier / den ſchaden demit gewaſchen / vnd mit genetzten tuͤchlin vbergelegt.” [10-54 rechts][10-55 links]
Elsewhere the book describes the virtues of aqua vitae, the virtues of which are to invigorate and refresh the whole body, especially the brain, the heart and all the members of the viscera and the whole body. It mentions various drugs that can be used in its preparation, including citron apples together with bitter orange and lemon. [10-179 rechts]
– “Damit wir aber hierinn nit zu weit außſchweiffen / woͤllen wir wieder zu den ſtucken tretten / welche ſolchem Aqua vitae zu eim zuſatz gegeben werden / innerhalb in Leib zubrauchen. Vnd erſtlich welche den gantzen Leib bekrefftigen vnd erquicken / als nemlich das hirn / hertz vnd alle glieder deß eingeweyds vnd gantzen Leibs / vnd seynd diß solche stuck: … Citrinaten oͤpffeln / sampt den Pomerantzen vnd Limonen …” [10-179 rechts]
Conclusion
By the 16th century at the latest, people were already making curaçao, even if they called the result something else. In 1588, a book from Amsterdam describes how to distil orange peel. A book from Frankfurt, published in 1597, also describes how to macerate bitter orange peel in wine or brandy and then distil it. It is recommended to use the potion internally and externally, also mixed with sugar. So a sweetened “curaçao” was already being made in those years.
17th century
In our search for sources, we have focused less on German-language sources for the 17th century. We have listed them extensively for the 16th century and have even found recipes there that correspond to that of a curaçao. We have not found any English or Dutch publications from that period. However, this changes in the 17th century.
The Netherlands
Let us first turn to the Dutch sources.
In 1686, a Dutch book wrote: “A pleasant orange water, to smell. Take as much orange blossom as you like, add a few pieces of orange peel, pour over it as much lily of the valley water as will cover it, distil this gently in a water bath, so that you have a very sweet-smelling water.” [14-30][14-31]
– “LXXXI. Een aangenaam Oranje water, om te ruyken. Neemt Oranje-bloesem, soo veel gy begeert, doet daar eenige stukjes Oranje-schillen by, giet hier over soo veel water van lelytjes van den Dale, dat het bedoken legge, distilleert dan dit sagjes in ‘t water-bad, soo hebt gy een seer liefelijk riekend water.” [14-30][14-31]
The Dutch botanist Abraham Munting, who died in 1683, [30] also described citrus fruits in his book – we have the edition from 1696. He published recipes that were taken from other works. However, these recipes often do not bring any new knowledge. One distils fruits, juice, seeds and blossoms and names what it is useful for. We refrain from quoting them all here. [6-13][6-14][6-15] Interesting is a recipe according to which lemon peel is put into French brandy – probably a brandy is meant here – and then distilled according to the rules of the art.
– “Daarenboven, wil iemand gedurig een goode Maag hebben, die neeme ieder, of om den tweeden morgen, een leepel twee of drie van’t fedistileert Water, ‘t welk op de volgende wijze werd gemaakt: Neem drie of vier Kannen Rhijnsche, of goede Fransche Brandewijn: doe daar in de Schellen van vijftig varssche Citroenen: Distilleer dit zagtjens na de konst. Met dit Water zomtijds ‘t Aangezicht gewasschen, maakt ook en zuyver Vel: Verdrijft de Zomer-sproetelen: Neemd wech alle Vlekken en Puysten: en is goed teegens al de voorgenoemde ongeleegentheeden.” [6-14]
Another recipe also refers to brandy:
– “In Brandewijn, ob de voorheenen verhaalde wijze, gedistilleert, en daar von ‘s morgens een weynig gedronken, versterkt, en brengd weer te regt een quade Maag: Maakt een vrolijk Hert: Bewaard den Mensch voor alle booze, pestilentiale lucht: Verdrijft alle Zomer-sproetelen en vlekken des Aangezichts.” [6-15]
As with the recipe from 1597 that we found, brandy is also used here.Also important is a recipe according to which a water is distilled from the whole and cut fruits, which is then mixed with a little sugar. This is practically a curaçao liqueur.
– “Uyt de Vruchten, ‘t zij geheel of doorgesneeden, werd en Water gedistilliert, ‘t welk, vermengd met een weynig Zuyker, zeer dienstig is in hittige Koortzen, en om de Maag te sterken: Want alle galachtige en flijmerige Vochten drijft het wech, zoo uyt de Maag als uyt de Darmen.” [6-14]
You can also add a lemon syrup instead of sugar:
– “‘t Zaad, of de Korlen, droog en verkoelend in den tweeden Graad, werkt niet alleen krachtiger teegens alle Vergif, als de Schel, of’t Zap, maar verdrijfd ook de onnatuurlijke Luften der Vrouwen : Is zeer dienstig, om de Wormen te doden en uyt te jagen : ‘t Zelve doet ook ‘t Water, gedistilleert uyt ‘t Zap, vermengd met Syroop van Citroenen, en daar van, ‘t zij Kinderen, ‘t zij oude Perfoonen , die Wormen hebben, te drinken gegeeven : Verquikt ook ‘t Hert : Lescht de dorst : Verwekt eetens-lust , en in de Vrouwen de Maandstonden : maar veroorzaakt ook wel een Misval, inzonderheyd wanneer ‘t te veel van een bevruchte Vrouw gebruykt, of gegeeten werd.” [6-14]
What must also be noted: it is a Dutch book, and all sorts of authors are quoted. Interestingly, no curaçao oranges are mentioned, and no liqueur of the same name! This suggests that the term was not yet known in 1683.
France
In 1659, a French book describes the production of orange water. However, this is nothing other than a lemonade: [29-132]
– “Eau d’orange. Elle se fait de mesme que celle de cystron.“ [29-132] „Eau de cytron. Prenez vn cytron, coupez en la peau par zestes, mettez les dās vne éguiere auec vne pinte d’eau & vn quarteron de fucre: battez les bien d’vn vaisseau à l’autre, & lors qu’elle aura pris le goust de cytron, passez- la comme les autres.” [29-132]
In 1694, a French medicine book says: “To make orange water. Take half a quarter of large oranges and six lemons, remove the thin peel, chop them into pieces and remove the thick white peel, which is thrown away. Add half an ounce of cloves and an ounce of cinnamon and let it all soak in a quart of white wine for three days. Then throw it all into the still to distil, along with a pint of white honey and a pint of rose water, which you mix well together.” [28-72]
– “Pour faire l’Eau d’Orange. IL faut prendre demi-quarteron de grosses Oranges & six Citrons, en ôtet la menue pelure de dessus, & la hacher par morceaux, puis ôter la grosse pelure blanche, que l’on jettera: on y joindra demi-once de clous de girofle, & une once de canelle; puis l’on mettra tremper le tout dans une quarte de vin blanc, l’espace de trois jours. Après on jettera tout dans la cloche pour distiller, avec une pinte de miel blanc, & une pinte d’eau Rose qu’on mêlera bien ensemble.” [28-72]
England
An English recipe book from 1662 states how to make orange water: “To make Orange Water. Take a pottle of the best Malligo sack, and put in as many of the peels of Oranges as will go in, cut the white clean off, let them steep twenty four hours; still them in a gl[as?]s still, and let the water run into the Receiver upon fine Sugarcandy; you may still it in an ordinary still.” [27-206]
“The London Distiller”, a 1667 book by John French, states: “CHAP. IX. Of Limen, or Orange Water. The greater quantity. Take Strong Proof-spirit what sufficeth, Limon or Orange pils dry 30 ounces, Anniseeds of the best 16 ounces; bruise the pils and seeds; distil them into strong Proof-spirt according to Art, dulcifie with white Sugar 5 pound. The lesser quantity. Take strong Proof-spirit 1 gallon, Limon or Orange pils dry 3 ounces, Anniseeds of the best 1 ounce 5 drams, bruise the pils and seeds; distil them into strong Proof-spirit according to Art; dulcifie with white Sugar 8 ounces. Limon water strengtheneth and reviveth the feeble spirits aromatizeth the stomach, and is a great Cordial. It also openeth obstructions, exceedingly breaketh wind in the stomach, is as an healing Balsam to all the inward parts, and is a great restorative to mans Nature.“[26-9]
Another English book, by Kenelm Digby from 1668, states: “An Excellent Orange-water or Spirit. Put the thin parings or chips of the rind of two hundred Oranges into a Cucurbite, so large that they fill it not above a third part full. Pour upon them six quarts of good Aquavitae; let them digest with a Blind-head close stopped during three or four days; then change that head for one with a Limbeck, and distil in Balneo. Keep the first two quarts by themselves; for they will be excellent good. Then change your Receiver, and the Oyl will come over with the rest of the liquor; towards the last, it will be too weak, both of the Orange and of the Spirit of Wine. Mingle one quart of excellent Syrup of Clove-Gilly-flowers, with the two first quarts; and it will be an excellent Cordial water. You may Aromatise it with Ambergris; and then it will be much better to those that love Amber.” [21][25-276][25-277]
Conclusion
Recipes reminiscent of Curaçao liqueurs can also be found in the 17th century, for example in books from the Netherlands, France and England. It is noticeable that in this century the term ‘curaçao’ is not yet used. Instead, the term orange water (Eau d’Orange) is used. Orange peel is macerated in wine or brandy, distilled and sugar or honey is added. Spices such as clove, cinnamon, clove, aniseed, ambergris and rose water are also used as ingredients.
18th century
A few interesting finds from the 18th century are also cited here.
Germany
In his Oekonomische Encyklopädie (Economic Encyclopaedia), Johan Georg Krünitz also describes distilled bitter orange in Volume Three, published in 1774, under the keyword Aurantium, namely: “Pomeranzen= Aquavit, Pomeranzen= or Orange- Wasser, Lat. Aqua, or Aqua vitae Aurantiorum, s. Corticum aurantiorum, Fr. Eau d’ Orange, can be made in many different ways. For example, one takes 4 pounds of bitter orange peel, marinates it for several days in 5 pots of brandy, then pours 7 more pots of brandy into it and distills it off in still. After this, take 2 pounds of sugar, purified and dissolved in water, 1/2 nößel of water per 1 jug of drained brandy, and mix it together. One may also put some sandalwood into the brandy and filter it through blotting paper. One can also proceed in the same way with other things, such as: cinnamon, lemon peel, caraway, aniseed, cardamom, juniper, etc. that one first soaks the species in good brandy, but then adds more and coats it. It should be noted, however, that the aquavit must also be coloured according to the nature of the spices, which makes it more attractive than, for example, with red sandalwood red, with yellow sandalwood yellow, or also with coccionellas red, likewise with saffron yellow, with litmus on violet, with hogweed, ruff and creus berries green, and so on. These things are only hung in or put in completely. It should also be noted that both the bitter orange and other aquavites must be sweetened with sugar water, and that this sugar water must be prepared beforehand in this way: 1/2 pound of sugar is taken for 1 pot of water, and this is boiled with each other; then this is allowed to cool, and then as much of it is added to the drawn-off spirit as it can bear. For it cannot be drunk too strong without sugar water; if, on the other hand, too much sugar water is added, it becomes not only cloudy but also too weak. The bitter orange aquavit can also be prepared in a different way. Take dry bitter orange peel, but only the outside of it, about 1/2 pound and 1 nößel of Spiritum Vini, put this together in a glass bottle, put it in the warm oven in ashes or sand for 14 days, shake it every day, then strain it, sweeten it with sugar water and filter it through blotting paper. See also Pomeranzen=Branntwein.” [1][11-127][11-128]
– “Pomeranzen= Aquavit, Pomeranzen= oder Orange- Wasser, Lat. Aqua, oder Aqua vitae Aurantiorum, s. Corticum aurantiorum, Fr. Eau d’ Orange, kann auf gar verschiedene Art gemacht werden. Als z. E. man nimmt 4 Pfund Pomeranzenschalen, beizet solche etliche Tage in 5 Kannen Branntwein; gießet hernach noch 7 Kannen Branntwein darzu, und ziehet solchen in einer Abzieh=Blase ab. Nach diesem nimmt man 2 Pfund geläuterten und in Wasser zerlaßenen Zucker, auf 1 Kanne abgezogenen Branntwein 1/2 Nößel Wasser gerechnet, und mischet es unter einander. Man leget auch wohl etwas Sandelholz mit in den Branntwein, und filtriret es also durch Löschpapier. Also kann man auch mit mehrern andern Sachen verfahren, als: mit Zimmet, Citronenschalen, Kümmel, Anis, Cardamomen, Wachholder, u. d. gl. daß man die Species erst in guten Branntwein einweichet, alsdenn aber mehr zugießet und ihn überziehet. Hierbei aber ist zu merken, daß man auch nach Beschaffenheit der Specierum den Aquavit färben mus, welches ihm sodenn mehr Ansehen macht, als z. E. mit rothem Sandel roth, mit gelbem Sandel gelb, oder auch mit Coccionellen roth, desgleichen mit Safran gelb, mit Lackmus auf violett, mit Bärenklau, Krausemünze und Creuzbeeren grün, u. s. w. Es werden diese Sachen nur hinein gehangen oder ganz darein gelegt. Hierbei ist auch zu merken, daß man sowohl den Pomeranzen= als auch andere Aquavite mit Zuckerwasser absüßen, und dieses Zuckerwasser vorher also bereitet werden mus: Als auf 1 Kanne Wasser wird 1/2 Pf. Zucker genommen, und solches mit einander aufgesotten; hernach läßt man solches erkalten, und alsdenn wird davon so viel unter den abgezogenen Spiritus gethan, als er vertragen kann. Denn allzu stark ist er ohne Zuckerwasser nicht zu trinken; wenn man hingegen allzu viel Zuckerwasser darunter thut, so wird er davon nicht nur trübe, sondern auch zu schwach. Auf eine andere Art kann auch der Pomeranzen=Aquavit also bereitet werden. Man nimmt trockene Pomeranzenschalen, aber nur das Aeussere davon, etwa 1/2 Pf. und 1 Nößel Spiritum Vini, thut solches zusammen in eine gläserne Flasche, setzet es 14 Tage lang auf den warmen Ofen in Asche oder Sand, rüttelt es alle Tage um, seihet es alsdenn ab, süßet es mit Zuckerwasser ab, und filtriret es durch Löschpapier. Siehe auch Pomeranzen=Branntwein.” [1][11-127][11-128]
He writes about Pomeranzen-Branntwein (bitter orange brandy): “Pomeranzen=Branntwein. After the whiteness has been subtly removed, the bitter orange peel is cut into long, narrow pieces, like cabbage, thrown into a glass bottle, strong brandy is poured over it and it is placed in the sun. As often as one has peels, one can add them to it, so that it remains strong and vigorous.” [1][11-129]
– “Pomeranzen=Branntwein. Man schneidet die Pomeranzenschalen, nachdem das Weiße subtil herausgenommen worden, in länglichte schmale Stücke, wie Kraut, wirft sie in eine gläserne Flasche, gießet starken Branntwein darauf, und setzet es an die Sonne. So oft man Schalen hat, kann man sie darzu thun, damit er kräftig und stark bleibe.“ [1][11-129]
The Netherlands
In the Amsterdamse Courant on 4 May 1724, “Oranje Water” is offered in bottles, which can be obtained from “Dirk Klattenburg op de Blaeuwburkwal”. [18]
On 4 January 1725, orange and lime peel are offered in the Amsterdamse Courant, and also “Oranje Water”, [17] likewise on 9 January. [16]
Also on 2 August 1736, “Oranje Water” is offered in the Amsteramde Courant, [15] likewise on 9 August. [13]
In 1743, the “Huishoudelyk woordboek”, a household dictionary by M. Noel Chomel defines: “Orange-water. Take orange and lemon peels, both fresh, half a cup each; cloves, five or six ounces; lavender flowers, freshly picked, six ounces. Let it stand four or five days on six pounds of Rozen water, and then distil it.” [2]
– “Oranje-water. Neemt Oranje en Citroen-schil, beide versch, een halve once van elks; Kruidnagelen, vyf of zes oncen; Lavendel-bloessem, versch geplukt, zes oncen. Laat het zamen vier of vyf dagen op zes pond Roozen-water staan; vervolgens distilleert het.” [2]
On 1 September 1772, it is announced in the Rotterdamse Courant that Johan Hendrik Adolph Doetsch “allerbest Oranje Water, dat zeer goed by een glas Wyn en voor de gezondheit is” – “allerbest Oranje Water, that is very good with a glass of wine and for health“. [5]
On 5 August 1786, “18 Flessen Oranje-Water”, i.e. “18 bottles of orange water” are offered for sale in the Amsterdams Courant. [3]
In 1795 it is written: “SPIRIT OF ORANGE PEEL. Take shredded orange peel, two pounds. Common brandy, four pounds. Let it steep for two days and distil it. In the same way prepare the SPIRIT OF LEMON PEEL.” [12-75]
– „GEEST VAN ORANJE-SCHILLEN. Neem versche Oranje-schillen, twee pond, Gemeenen Brandewyn, vier pond. Trek het twee dagen, en haal het over. Op dezelfde wyze bereidt men GEEST VAN CITROEN-SCHILLEN.“ [12-75]
England
“The compleat distiller”, an English book from 1705, published in the 2nd edition, states: “Aqua Limoniarum aut Aurantiorum, Limon, or, Orange Water. Composition the greater. Distiller. Take of good Proof Spirits sixteen gallons, Limon or Orange Pills dry, three pound, Aniseeds the best one pound, nine ounces, five drachms, bruise the Pills and Seeds, and then distill into fine Spirit, and dulcifie with white Sugar eight pound. [Addition] Caraway seeds six ounces, four drachms, Aniseeds, Limon Pills dry, ana. one pound and a half, five drachms, grains six, white Sugar four pound: In the like manner and quantity you may make your Composition with Orange Pills dry. Composition the lesser. Take of good Proof Spirit three gallons, Limon or Orange pills dry, nine ounces, Aniseeds the best four ounces, eight drachms; bruise the pills and seeds, and then distill into fine Spirit, Secundum Artem , dulcifie with white Sugar one pound and a half. [Addition] Carawaysees one ounce, three drachms, grains fifteen; Aniseeds, Limon pills dry, ana. four ounces, seven drachms, white Sugar twelve ounces: In the like manner, and quantity you may make your Composition with Orange pills dry.” [24-74][24-75]
In 1707 it was written: “Orange water is made in the following manner: Take of the yellow Peel of half an Hundred of the best fresh and well-colour’d Oranges, infuse them four or five Days in three Quarts of Sack and two Quarts of Nants-Brandy; put a Pound of Loaf-Sugar into it to sweeten it.” [23-317]
This is an example of a recipe in which distillation is not used, but the peel is only macerated, here in a mixture of sherry and brandy.
Mary Kettilby writes in 1714: “A Cordial Orange-Water. TAKE three quarts of good Brandy, and the Rinds of a dozen and a half of Oranges, pare them very thin, that none of the White go in, let them steep in the Brandy three Days and Nights close stopt; then take five pints of Fair-Water, and a pound and a half of double-refin’d Sugar; Boil this Syrop half an Hour, and scum it as any rises; then strain it through a Jelly-bag, and let it stand ’till cold; then mix it with the Brandy, which must be first pour’d from the Peels, and settled: Keep it for Use.” [22-117][22-118]
An English book from 1725 describes how to prepare orange water.- “Lemon or Orange-water. 20 gallons of rectify’d Spirits … 6 pounds of Lemon or Orange-peels dry’d … 7 pounds of Sugar … Directions for Orange-water, &c. Lemon-water is not near so much in request as Orange-water, nor indeed is it so pleasant or grateful to the palate as Orange: they are not much known, or used in the country: but the agreeable relish, or flavour thereof, will make it much preferable to the double or single Anniseed. Clove, Angelica, or such like goods: I mean Orange, especially double Orange, which is sold much dearer than other such like goods; purely to get an opinion in the buyer, that it is a more rich and valuable Commodity: and the more to keep up its reputation, as well as the temptation of a greater profit thereby. The skins or peels muft be all of the Sevil, and none of the China Oranges; and muft be kept very dry, or they will grow damp and putre- fy’d, and not fit to be used. If you buy or procure green Orange-peel, you muft spread it very thin in a dry chamber, and turn it oft, and not put it by for use, ’till exceedingly well dry’d.” [4-28][4-29]
Another English recipe appears in 1746 and reads: “AQUA CORTICUM AURANTIORUM SPIRITUOSA, The SPIRITUOUS WATER of ORANGE-PEEL. Take of the outer yellow rind of fresh Seville oranges half a pound, of proof spirit a gallon, of water as much, as is sufficient to avoid burning. Distill off a gallon.” [8-244]
Conclusion
In 1774, Georg Krünitz describes the bitter orange and the products derived from it in great detail. He writes: “Pomeranzen= Aquavit, Pomeranzen= or Orange- Wasser, Lat. Aqua, or Aqua vitae Aurantiorum, s. Corticum aurantiorum, Fr. Eau d’ Orange, can be made in many different ways.” Interestingly, he does not yet know the name Curaçao either. This is an indication that the term came into use later. He describes different recipes. The basic recipe is always the same. The bitter orange peel is macerated in brandy. Then you can optionally distil or just strain the peel and add sugar. Optionally, you can also use different spices.
In the Netherlands, you can find newspaper advertisements for orange water (Oranje Water) and recipes similar to the ones we mentioned from the 17th century. In England, too, orange water (aqua aurantiorum) is still made.
So there are numerous recipes that correspond to a macerated or distilled, sweetened or unsweetened, spiced or un-spiced curaçao of later times. So we see that the curaçao that appears around 1800 is nothing new. Only the name seems to be really new.
Conclusion
Now, at the end of this series, we of course want to give you a recommendation. We have established that originally, and even in the 19th century, a curaçao was made by macerating bitter orange peel, then optionally distilling it and optionally adding sugar. The curaçao was also – but not always – coloured, but this has no effect on the taste. Originally, spices were rather not used; this seems to have become fashionable only in more recent recipes. Based on this, it becomes clear which product should be used in old recipes – and why not in modern ones – when a curaçao is called for: A bitter orange eau-de-vie. If necessary, one has to adjust the recipe slightly and add some more sugar syrup. We have started to keep it that way and are more than happy with the result.
https://archive.org/details/b30515750/page/28/mode/2up?q=curacao G. Smith: A Compleat Body of Distilling, Explaining the Mysteries of that Science, in A most easy and familiar Manner; Containing an Exact and accurate Method of making all the Compound Cordial-Waters now in Use, with A particular Account of their several Virtues: As also a Directory Consisting of All the Instructions necessary for learning the Distillers Art; with a Computation of the original Cost of the several Ingredients, and the Profits arising in Sale. Adapted no less to the Use of private Families, than of Apothecaries and Distillers. In two Parts. London, 1725.
https://archive.org/details/gri_33125012606758/page/n57/mode/2up?q=pomerantzen Abraham Munting: Naauwkeurige beschryving der aardgewassen, waar in de veelerley aart en bijzondere eigenschappen der boomen, heesters, kruyden, bloemen, met haare vrugten, zaden, wortelen en bollen, neevens derzelver waare voort-teeling, gelukkige aanwinning, en heylzaame genees-krachten, na een veel-jarige oeffening en eigen ondervinding, in drie onderscheide boeken, naauwkeuriglijk beschreeven worden. Leyden & Uetrecht, 1696.
https://archive.org/details/mobot31753000818796/page/CXXVIII/mode/2up?q=pomeranzen Eucharius Reoslin: Kreuterbuch / von natürlichem Nutz und gründtlichem Gebrauch der Kreuter / Bäum / Gesteud / unnd Früchten / fürnemlich Teutscher Lande. Desgleichen der Gethier / Edlen gesteyn / Metal / und anderer Simplicien und Stucken der Arznei. Mit aller deren fleissiger Beschreibung / und leblichen Abconterfeytungen. Distillierns Bereydtschafft / und Bericht / Kostbarliche Wasser zubrennen / abziehen / halten und zugebrauchen. Frankfurt am Main, 1550.
https://archive.org/details/b3033648x/page/280/mode/2up?q=orange Anonymus (John French): The London-distiller, exactly and truly shewing the way (in words at length, and not in mysterious characters and figures) to draw all sorts of spirits and strong-waters: to whicj is added their venues, with additions of many excellent waters. London, 1667.
http://digitale.bibliothek.uni-halle.de/vd16/content/pageview/1233389D. IACOBI THEODORI TABERNAEMONTANI Neuw/ vnd volkommenlich Kreuterbuch/ Mit schönen/ künstlichen vnd leblichen Figuren vnnd Conterfeyten/ allerhandt frembder vnd einheymischer Gewächß/ Kreuter/ Blumen/ Stauden/ Hecken/ Bäume/ auch köstlicher außländischer Wurtzeln/ Rinden/ Früchten … dergleichen vormals nie ans Liecht oder in Truck kommen. Das Ander Theyl. … Alles digerirt vnd vollbracht durch NICOLAVM BRAVN MEDICINAE Doctorem Marpurgensem. Frankfurt am Main, 1591.
The maceration and distillation of bitter orange peel goes far back into the past. Such recipes must be regarded as precursors for a curaçao. Because of the simplicity of the recipe, one can even postulate that these recipes were also nothing other than a curaçao, even if they were not called that. What recipes were there? What was such a distillate used for? What healing properties were attributed to the bitter orange? That is what we will deal with in this part. Finally, we explain to you why a bitter orange eau de vie should be used as a curaçao in the preparation.
15th century
The “Gart der Gesundheit” (“Garden of Health”) is one of the first printed herbal books in German. It was published in Mainz in 1458 by Peter Schöffer, a former employee of Johannes Gensfleisch, known as Gutenberg. It is one of the most important late medieval works on medicinal plants. [45]
The 327th chapter is about the bitter orange. The text is not always clear to us today. It says that the seed quenches thirst and is good for sick people. The peel drives away “the ſterblich venyn”, i.e. helps with poisoning. [43-231] [44-cccxxvii] And if pregnant women ate the flesh of the bitter orange, it would drive away the “evil air”, whatever one imagines by that. [44-cccxxvii]
– “Poma citrina citrin epphel Cap. cccxxvii . Pma citrina larine Die meiſter sprechē das diß ſint oͤpphel vnd haben eyn vnderſcheyt mit den granat oͤppheln als du den geleſen haſt das capitel granatū . Vn̄ hie iſt zuͤ mercken als Yſaac ſpricht das diß citrin oͤpphel han vierley an yn . Das erst iſt die ſchal das ander das fleyſch . das dritte das marck . das vierde iſt der ſame . vnd der iglichs hait eyn ſunder natuer an ym . Die ſchal iſt heyß vnd drücken an dem zweyten grad . Das fleyſch hie von iſt kalt vnd fuͤücht an dē erſten grade vnd ſyn kelt iſt men wan ſyn füchtikeyt Das marck iſt zuͤ viel ſubtil vnd hait nit füchtigkeyt . Der ſame iſt ſis erecht vnd von natuer kalt vnd fücht an dem zweyten grade . Dißer ſame hait macht den dorſt zuͤ leſchen vn̄ iſt guͤt krancken luden . Die ſchale mit wyn gedrūckē verdrybt das ſterblich venyn . Das fleyſch zuͤ eßen iſt nit guͤt vnd ſunderlich die kalt magen hant . Das marck hie von ist wenig nutz dē menſchen wan es gar wenig fuͤdet . Paulus ſpricht das die frauwen die ſchwanger ſynt dißes fleyſch vō diſſem apphel geßen verdrybt yn die boͤsen geluft .” [44-cccxxvii]
The “Gart der Gesundheit” was also reprinted in the same year by Hans Schönsperger in Augsburg. Here, however, one finds a different text.
– “Poma appfe = cäp . cccxxv = POmū latine = | Die meiſter ſprechē gemeinlich dz manigerleÿ oͤpffel ſind = eins teils ſeȳ genant poma cetonia = etlich poma citri vō dē wir in diſem = cap = ſagen = etlich poma arācie / etlich poma granata = etlich poma paradiſi = etlich ſeind genant poma ethiopia = etlich poma maciana = | Rabi moyſes ſpricht dz oͤpffel vn̄ ſuuḋlich die zamē vō irē guͤtē geruch ſterckē dz hercz vn̄ dz hirn vn̄ ſein guͤt ptiſies dz iſt dÿe dz abnemen haben vn̄ melancolicis = | Auch ſpricht er dz oͤpffel whegeſſn̄ vngenſunḋ ſind dan̄ all anḋ obs = wān ſÿ bringen boͤſe feüchtūg allen glidern | Galienus in dē = vii buͤch genāt ſimpliciū farmacorū in dē 0 capi 0 milia = jd ē pomaria et ē arbor pomorū 0 beſchreibt vns vn̄ ſpricht dz oͤpffel nit habēn ein natur = wān ei teil ſeȳ ſüß ein teil ſaur = ei teil waͤaſſerig ein teil ſind ſcharpf vnd ir ÿegklich hat ir eigen nature = darnach ſÿ ſind / wān ſein ſÿ ſüß ſo ſein ſÿ wārm vn̄ truckē vō natur = ſein ſÿ ſaur ſo ſein ſÿ kalt von nutur = | Galienus ſprichtt = das aller ſafft ḋ oͤpffel ir feüchtikeit nit behalten mügen = on allein malacitonia = das ſind kutten oͤpffel = wān man ir ſafft bereÿtt mit honig vn̄ zucker oḋ anḋ ſpecereÿē ſo wert ſÿ deſter lenger | Poma citri haben auch manigerley natur an inē = wān dÿe ryndē außen darā die iſt heyß vn̄ trncken = die kern inwēdig ſein kalt vn̄ trucken = das mitteil in dē apffel heÿß vnd feücht | Die rinden & oͤppfel dÿe man nennt granat oͤppfel whe geſſen stercken das hercze vnd benemen des herczen zittern = | Die kern in ein waſſer gelegt vnd das waſſer darnach in dem mund gehalten vnd ſenfftigklich eyn genūmē benÿmt dÿe ſcherp[?]ūg ḋ keln = vn̄ des magē aufſtoſſen =” [42-cccxxv]
16th century
In 1500, the ” Kleine Distillierbuch” (Little Distilling Book) by Hieronymus Brunschwig, a wound doctor from Strasbourg, was published. [41] In it, there is no mention of bitter orange. [40]
Eucharius Rößlin, who died in Frankfurt in 1554, was a Frankfurt city physician. [39] In 1533 his herbal book was published, in which he refers to the ‘Gart der Gesundheit’ (Garden of Health), and since he puts the text into more modern German, it becomes more understandable for us. His book also mentions a distillation of bitter orange blossoms. He writes that the “apples”, because of their good smell, strengthen the heart and brain and help the melancholic. They should not be eaten raw, as they are unhealthy. [38-clxv]
– “Epffel. Pomum. Pomum Citri, Pomū Granatū. Poma Maciana, Aethiopiae, Paradyſi. Citrinatoͤpffel. Granatoͤppfel. Pomerantzen. DIe oͤpffel / ſunderlich die zahmenn / ſercken vonn ihres guͤeten geruchs wegen / das herz vnnd hirn / ſeindt guͤt denen die das abnemē haben / auch den Melacholiſchen / oͤpffel rohe geſſen / ſeind vngeſunder dann alles ander obs / dann ſie bringen boͤſe feuchtung allen glidern. Die ſuͤßen ſeind warm vnd trucken von natur / Die ſauren kalt. Aller oͤpffel feuchtigkeyt mag nit behalten werden / on alleyn kütten oͤpffel / bereyt mit honig vnnd zucker oder anderen ſpecereien / wert deſter lenger. Citrinoͤpffel haben auch mancherley natur an ihn / die rind außwendig darann iſt heyß vnd drucken. Die kernen innwendig ſeindt kalt vnd drucken / Vnd das mittel in dem apffel iſt heyß vnd feucht. Granatoͤpffel rinden rohe geſſen / stercken das hertz / benemen hertz zittern, Die kern in ein waſſer geleget / vnnd das waſſer darnach im mund ghalten vnd ſenfftiglich ingeſchlicket / benimpt die ſcherpffe der kelen / bnimpt des magens vffſtoſſen. | Fauler oͤpffelwaſſer. Von den geimpfften ſo ſie faul ſind / bren̄ inbalneo Marie. Diß waſſer iſt guͤt fürn kalten / faulenden brand / der vm̄ſich frißt / vnd außfelt / od der wie er iſt / damit gewaſchen / vn̄ mit eim tuͤch darüber gelegt / morgens vn̄ abends. Das waſſer iſt guͤt für ſchwartze blatern für den wolff / peſtilentziſche Apoſtem vnd geſschwer / zum teg iij.mal mit tuͤchern über gelegt. Das waſſer von zahmen oͤppfeln gebran̄t eh ſie faul werdenn / iſt vaſt guͤtt zeſtercken vnd krefftigen / kuͤlt den leib vnd herz / morgens vnd abends getruncken. | Eppfelbluͤtwaſſer. Die bluͤſt von den geimpfften apffelbaumen / ſo die knoͤpff ſich von einander teylen / tuͤcher vnder den baum geſpreyt / vnnd mit ſtecklin an den baum geſchlagen / die bluͤmē in balneo Marie gebrandt. Das waſſer iſt guͤtt für die roͤte vnd vngestalt des angeſichts / morgens vnd abends damitt gewaſchen / etwa iij. oder iiij. wuchen lang diß gethon / hilfft wol.” [38-clxv]
By the way, a “balneum Mariae” mentioned in the text means a water bath. [37]
Eucharius Rößlin’s Kräuterbuch (Herbal Book) from 1550 says that bitter orange, as well as Limonen (vulgo: lemons) and sweet orange, help against all kinds of things. The peels make you breathe well and help against the evil air of pregnant women – whatever you might think of that. They also drive away vermin and prevent clothes from being eaten by them. By their smell they help against evil air and thus drive away pestilence. They help with all ailments of the stomach, and expel mucus from the intestines. They are also good for the liver. The fruit pulp heals inflamed limbs and, prepared as an ointment, also mange and all hot ulcers. When salted, the fruits strengthen the heart and all internal organs. The juice is made into a sour syrup which strengthens the heart and drives away poison and is also good against evil air and pestilential fever: [7-cxxvii] [7-cxxviii]
– “Citrinatoͤpffel. Pomerantzen. … DEr Citrinatenbaum tregt durchs jar über frücht / ſeind lang / runtzlecht / goldfarb / ſtarckes geruchs / kernlin wie byrn / welche in wein getruncken / ſeind guͤt für gifft / vnd treiben den ſtuͤlgang. Krafft vnd Wirkung. Den mund gewaͤſchen mit der bruͤ darinn die kern geſotten / oder mit jrm ſafft / macht einn guͤten athem. Citrinat werden gebraucht wider boͤse lüft der schwangern frawen. Zun kleydern gelegt / verhuͤtens vorn ſchaben und motten. Die rind geſotten mit waſſer / vnd den mund damit gewaͤſchen / macht ein̄ wolriechenden mund.” [7-cxxvii]
– “Dise rinden gelegt zu tuͤchern / nemen keinn ſchaden vonn Schaben oder andern würmen. Der geruch von diſer rinde benimpt den boͤsen lufft / daruon die peſtilentz entſtehen mag. Die rinden Citri ſeind für allen gebreſten des magens guͤt. Treibt auch allen ſchleim auß den daͤrmen. Seind faſt guͤt dem magen vnd leber / das puluer daruon getruncken mit wein. Das marck von diſer frucht heylet die entzündte glider. Trücknet vn̄ heylt die raud. Für diſes magſt du nemen ein ſalb / Vnguentum citrinum genannt / auß der Apotecken. Diß Vnguent geſtrichen / wo die haut am leib abgegangen were / als von gehn / arbeyten / oder jucken / das heylt diſe ſalb. Vnd dienet ſonderlich für alle heyſſe geſchwulſt gleich der weiſſen ſalbe. Mit Vnguento citrino geſchmiert vnderm angeſicht / benimpt die außſetzigkeyt. Eingeſultzte Citrinatoͤppfel geſſen / ſterckts hertz vnd alle innerliche glider. Vom ſafft wirt ein Sirup gemacht in der Apotecken / iſt ſauerlecht / welcher genützt / das herz ſterckt / vnd vertreibtſ gifft darvon / iſt guͤt wider boͤsen lufft vnd peſtilentziſche feber. Zumercken / was von den Citrinaten oder gelben runden oͤpffeln geschribn̄ / soll auch von den ſauren und ſuͤſſen Pomerantzen / vnnd friſchen vngeſaltznen Limonen verſtanden werden / dann ſie ſeind alle einer art.” [7-cxxviii]
The Frenchman Antonio Mizauld died in Paris in 1578. He was an astrologer and physician. [35] The Frenchman Antonio Mizauld died in Paris in 1578. He was an astrologer and physician. [35] In 1577, one of his books, translated into German, was published in Basel with the title “Arztgarten” (“Physician’s Garden”). In it he reports on the sweet and sour bitter orange and lemons as medicines: The bitter orange warms and is therefore very good for quenching the thirst of those suffering from “cold sore”. Lemons syrup helps with bile problems, against pestilence and drives away “poisonous addiction”. The distillate of lemon makes the face beautiful, smoothes wrinkled skin, drives away lichen and blemishes all over the body and also helps against fever when mixed with other syrups. [9-289] [9-290] [9-291]
– “Pomerantzen vnd Limonien ſampt ihren arzneyen. Aurantia arbor & Limonia. Das zehende Beth. DEr pomerantzen ſind dreyerley geſchlecht / ſuͤſſe / ſawre / vnd bitzelechtige / welche zum theil ſuͤß / zum theil ſawer. Die ſuͤssen haben ein krafft zu waͤrmen. Der andern ſafft keltet / mehr oder weniger / nach geſtalt des ſchmacks / welcher ſuͤſſer oder ſawrer. Es ſind deßhalben die ſawren ſehr gut für den durſt der krancken / welche mit einem kaltenweh beladen ſein. Die rind von allen pomerantzē iſt warm vnnd hitzig / welches der ſchmack bezeuget: denn derſelb iſt herb vnnd bitter. Wo man deßhalbē den ſafft bei einē liecht außtrucket / ſo wirt er leicht angezuͤndet / vnd gibt ſein krafft dem wein am leichteſten von wegen ſeiner duͤnnen ſubſtanz / in ein glaß auch von weitem her geſpritzet. Die limonien ſind ſaͤwer alß die citronen vnd pomerantzen alle ſampt / denn ihr ſafft iſt kelter vnd trockner. Man macht ein ſyrup auß den limonien / mit welchem die ſcharffe gall wirt gelindert / item die peſtilentz vnd gifftig ſucht vertrieben. Das diſtilliert waſſer von limonien iſt gut das angeſicht zu ferben und ſchoͤn zu machē / macht glatt die haut / ſo zuuor runzelechtig geweſen / vertreibt die flechten vnnd mackel in gantzem leib / ob ſie gleich auß dem auſſatz herkommen weren. Mit andern ſyrupen vermiſcht (ſo ſonſten auch gleiche gebrechen vertreibn̄) iſt gut für das geſchwinde und anfallende feber. Solches hab ich offtmals probiret.” [9-289] [9-290] [9-291]
The distiller Caspar Janszoon Coolhaes published his influential book “Van seeckere seer costelijcke wateren diemen met recht soude mogen noemen” in Amsterdam in 1588. He was born in Cologne in 1536 and was appointed professor in Leiden in the Netherlands in 1574. For him, brandy (distilled from grapes) was superior to a grain spirit, and he complains in his book that grain spirits were considered equivalent. His book is thus the first written evidence that grain brandy was preferred to wine brandy; on the basis of his statement we know that at the latest in the 1580s grain brandy was more important than wine brandy in the Netherlands. [20-194] Grain brandy appeared as early as the 15th century and was first mentioned in 1507 in a text from Nordhausen. [20-312]
In his book, Caspar Janszoon Coolhaes describes on page 22 the “Aqua Anrantiæ: Appel van Aranien ſchillen Water”, the “Orange Peel Water” [19-22] [19-23] This is the oldest record we could find for macerated and distilled orange peel. The following is a list of applications, similar to the German-language records of the time, which is why we refrain from quoting the Dutch text here.
Jacobus Theodorus Tabernaemontanus was actually called Jakob Dietrich and came from Bergzabern. He died in Heidelberg in 1590 and was not only a doctor and pharmacist, but also a professor of medicine and botany. [34] His herbal book from 1591 describes the bitter orange tree and states that it grew in Welschland – meaning Italy and France [33] – but was also cultivated in Germany, albeit with great effort, much work and diligence, which is why it was associated with high costs.
– “Das XIIII. Capitel. Von Pomerantzen. Pomerantzen. Malus aurantia. DIe Pomerantzen ſeyn auch auß dem Geſchlecht der Citrinataͤpffel / dann ſie ſich mit der Geſtalt vnnd der Krafft den Citrinaten vergleichen / außgenommen daß ſie runder ſeyn / vnd ſo ſie zeittig worden / gewinnen ſie ein ſchöne goldrote Farb: Der Pomerantzenbaum iſt fuͤr vnnd fuͤr gruͤn / traͤgt auch vber das gantze Jahr ſeine Frucht wie der Citronenbaum. Seine Bletter ſeyn dick / glat / ſpitzig vnd wolriechendt / vergleichen ſich dem Lorbeernlaub. Die Bluͤet iſt weiß vnd wolriechendt. Die Rinde an den Pomerantzen iſt dick vnnd eines bittern Geſchmacks. Sie haben aber nicht einerley Geſchmack / dann etliche ſeyn suͤß / etliche ſauwr / Sie wachſen in Welſchlandt vnnd Franckreich / werden auch in Deutſchlandt mit groſſer Muͤhe / Arbeit / Fleiß vnnd groſſem Vnkoſten aufferzogen.” [36-660]
In this book we also read that a distillate of bitter orange blossom stimulates perspiration and that in Italy it is used for many things because of its good smell, in Spain it is given to women in labour. It is also good for strengthening the heart.
– “Von Pomerantzenbluͤtwaſſer. Matthiolus vermeldet daß man auß der Pomerantzenbluͤet gar ein lieblich wolriechend Waſſer brenne / welches eine ſonderliche gute Krafft habe den Schweiß mit Gewalt zu fuͤrdern. So meldet auch D. Camerarius daß es von wegen ſeines guten Geruchs zu vielen Sachen in Italia gebraucht werde / vnnd in Spanien gebe man es den ſchwangeren Weibern in ein wenig Poleyenwaſſer / wenn sie hart geberen. Wirdt auch fuͤr ein gute Hertzſtaͤrckung gebrauchet.” [36-661]
The Italian Pietro Andrea Mattiolo died in Trento in 1577. He was a doctor, medical writer, botanist and personal physician to the emperor. [32] In 1590, the German translation of his herbal book was published in Frankfurt am Main, expanded with illustrations and further remedies by Joachim Camerarius. He was a city physician in Nuremberg, botanist and naturalist. [31]
This herbal from 1590 describes that sweet bitter orange helps with “diseases of the breast and sides” and with “heated diseases”, strengthens the heart and promotes sleep. [46-80r]
– “Natur / Krafft / vnd Wirckung. … Der Pomerantzen. Die ſuͤſſen Pomerantzen mag man ſicherlich geben in den Kranckheitē der Bruſt vnd Seiten. * Der Safft auß den ſuͤſſen Pomerantzen außgedruckt vnd ein gut truͤncklin davon gegeben / fuͤrdert den Schlaff / fuͤrnemlich mit Veielſaft eingeben / in Pleuricide vnd dergleichen hitzigen Kranckheiten. * Zu den hitzigen / jnnerlichen Fiebern ſindt die ſauren / vn̄ Weinſauren bequemer / dann sie leſchen den Durſt / vnnd vnnatuͤrliche Hitz / laſſen nicht faulen / ſtercken das Hertz / vnd fuͤrdern den Harn.” [46-80r]
Sour bitter orange helps with “stomach worms”. Distilled bitter orange flowers have a diaphoretic effect and are used especially in Italy because it is “useful for many things because of its good smell”. In Spain, it is given to pregnant women during difficult childbirth. But the oil of the peel is also used to make a delicious cordial, which is “useful in many diseases”. The author recommends that bitter orange should not only be found in pharmacies, but also in every kitchen. [46-80v]
– “Wider die Bauchwuͤrme: Nimb ſawre Pomerantzen / ſchneid ſie mitten entzwey / begeuß ſie mit bitterem Mandeloͤl / und brate ſie. Alſo gebraten lege ſie auff den Nabel / oder druck den Safft darauß / gib den zu trincken / es hilfft. Auß der Pomerantzenbluͤt brennet man ein Waſſer / daſ getruncken / treibet den Schweiß gewaltig. * Das deſtillirte Waſſer / auß Pomerantzenbluͤt / wirt ſonderlich fleiſſig in Italia zu Neapoli vnd Luca, da man es Nampham vnd Angelicam nennet / gemacht. Es iſt in vielen Sachen nuͤtzlich zu gebrauchen / von wegen ſeines guten Geruchs. In Hiſpania gibt man es den ſchwangern Weibern / wann ſie hart geberen / ſonderlich mit ein wenig Polley Waſſer vermiſchet. Aber viel kraͤfftiger ist darzu das Oel auß den Schelffen gemacht / welchs auch ſonst ein koͤſtlich Cordiale, vnd in vielen Kranckheiten nuͤtzlich vnnd gut zugebrauchen / erfunden iſt worden. * Die fleiſſigen Apothecker pflegen die Schalen von den Pomerantzen mit Zucker einzumachen / vnd iſt ja ein gesunde Speiſe zu allen kalten Gebreſten deß Magens. Limonien vnd Pomerantzen gehoͤren nicht allein in die Apothecken / ſondern auch in die Kuͤchen.” [46-80v]
In 1597, the ” Neue vollkommene Distillierbuch” (“New Perfect Distilling Book”) was published in Frankfurt am Main. Unfortunately, the title does not mention the author by name, but states that the book was first written by Hieronimus Braunschweigk, then expanded by Walther Hermann Ryff and now revised, corrected and expanded with many illustrations by a lover of the art of distilling. We do not know who the author of this edition is. Perhaps it is a work that was initiated by the editor because of the great demand, and on which many co-authors have collaborated. At least that is how one could interpret the preface.
This book reports on the distillation of bitter orange, citron and lemon blossoms, but with the remark that these blossoms are hardly available, which is why the blossom distillate is imported. Then it is reported that one takes the rinds of bitter orange, citron or lemon and cuts off only the yellow with a small sharp knife, so that one does not use any of the white. These rinds are macerated for several days in a sealed glass in the juice of the fruit, if the distillate is to be colder, or with strong wine, if it is to be hotter, or Maluasier, if it is to be even hotter, or with rectified brandy, if it is to be at its hottest, and then distilled. This distillate is then not so strong or sweet as made with the flowers, but is almost equal in strength and virtue. One may take one or two spoonfuls of it at the appropriate time or add it to one’s daily drink, use it externally or internally, also mixed with sugar.
– “Pomerantzen / Citrinaten / vnd Limonen bluͤt Waſſer. WIewol die bluͤt diſer koſtbarlichen oͤpffel / bey vns / kelte vnnd reuhe halben deß Luffts / frembd vnd nit zubekommen / daß man ſie Diſtilliern moͤchte / ſo hab ich doch ſolchs Waſſer / nit allein deß lieblichen geruchs halben / in welchem es alle einfache Waſſer vbertrifft / ſonder auch der vielfeltigen nutzbarkeit halben / hie melden woͤllen / dan̄ ſolches auff gemeine weiſe gediſtilliert / auch zu vns gebracht wirt / Oder damit du ſolches edlen vnd faſt koſtbarlichen Waſſers nit mangleſt / ſo thu im alſo wie hernach folget: Nimb die Rinden von obgemeldten oͤppfeln / als von Pomerantzen / Citrinaten / oder Limonen / ſchneide mit einem ſcharpffen Meſſerlin allein das gelb herab / daß du von dem weiſſen / welches gar ohn allen geruch iſt / nichts hinweg nemeſt / Solche gelben Rinden eins Apffels inſonderheit oder etliche zuſammen vermiſcht / ſolt du wol in ihrem eignen Safft / ſo du das Waſſer wilt zu kelte geneigt haben / oder in gutem kräfftigen wolriechenden Wein / welche etwas hitziger / oder in Maluaſier / ſo noch hitziger / oder in rectificirtem gebranten Wein / ſo am aller hitzigſten / erbeitzen / vndn etlich tag putreficiern oder digeriern laſſen / doch ſolt du ſolches zusatzes nicht mehr daruͤber gieſſen / denn daß es bloß ein wenig erfeuchtet werde / vnnd man ſolche feuchte kaum spuͤre / laß in einem wol verſtopften Glaß alſo biß zu der zeit der diſtillierung / ſtehn / daß es gar nit verriechen / noch einig Lūfftlin darvon außriechen moͤge / dann ſo ziehe es ſaͤnfftiglich ab / ſo hast du vber die maß ein nuͤtzlich heilſam wolriechend Waſſer / welches / ob es gleich am geruch nicht alſo kraͤfftig oder lieblich als das ſo von den Blumen gediſtillieret wirdt / iſt es ihm doch in der krafft vnd tugent faſt gleich / darvon magſtu auff ein Loͤffel voll oder zwen zu gelegner zeit eingeben / vnnd auch deinen taͤglichen tranck damit vermiſchen / auch euſſerlich vnnd innerlich deß Leibs brauchen / wie folgends gehoͤrt / mit Zucker vermiſcht / oder fuͤr ſich ſelbs eingetruncken.” [10-54 links] [10-54 rechts]
This is clearly already a description of a curaçao liqueur: bitter orange peel is macerated, distilled and sugar is added if necessary. And one still uses – as was originally customary – brandy. So a Curaçao was already being produced under a different name in 1597 at the latest.
Since we have already reported on the positive effects of the bitter orange, we will now also report on the application of the distillate, as the book provides detailed information. The internal use helps with poisoning, strengthens the heart, head and brain, refreshes the spirit in faintness and weakness, removes melancholy impurities, sorrow and sadness and thus ensures that the person becomes light-minded, cheerful and courageous. It helps pregnant women, drives away the evil air, strengthens their stomachs and refreshes the foetus. It also helps to abort a dead foetus. It is also good for the stomach and liver and strengthens digestion. For the eyes it is beneficial and brings a squinting face back to its natural shape. [10-54 rechts]
– “Pomerantzen / Citrinaten / vnd Limonenwasser innerhalb in Leib zubrauchen. VOr allen gediſtillierten Waſſern hat diß die krafft vnnd tugent / daß es allem Gifft krefftigen widerstandt thut / vnnd das Herz gewaltiglich darvor beſchirmet / es ſey von eingenommenem Gifft / Peſtilentziſcher vergifftigung / oder ſchaͤdlicher Thier / Gewuͤrm / vnd Ungezifers vergifftigung. Dan̄ das Hertz wirt von dieſem Waſſer / deßgleichen auch das Haupt vnd Hirn / vber die maß wol geſterckt vnd bekrefftiget / vnd die leblichen Geiſter erquickt in aller onmacht vnnd ſchwacheit / es erleutert auch das Gebluͤt von aller Melancholiſchen vnreinigkeit / darvon der Menſch leichtſinnig / froͤlich / vnd mutig wirt / dann es vertreibet allen Melancholiſchen kummer / vnmuth vnd trawrigkeit / von vnbewußter urſach / wirt dieser vnd obgemelter vrsach / in zeit vergifftes Luffts / vnnd Peſtilentziſchen sterblaͤuffen / vber die maß nuͤtzlich gebraucht. So man auch morgens nuͤchtern ein Loͤffel voll dieſes Waſſers / von Blumen oder Rinden der Pomerantzen / Citrinaten / oder Limonen / gediſtilliert / einnimbt / gibts dem Mund vber die maß ein ſuͤſſen lieblichen vnnd faſt guten geruch / vnd behaͤlt den Menſchen / deſſelbigen tags frey vor aller Peſtilentziſcher vergifftung / daß er nit leichtlich inficieret werden mag. So auch einer deß morgens von ſolchem Waſſer getruncken / iſt er folgendes tags ſicher vor Gifft / es ſey von vergiffter Speiß oder gifftiger Thier / Gewuͤrm vnnd Vngezifer biſſz. Diß Wasser hat auch ein ſonderliche eigenſchafft / daß es den ſchwangern Weibern / ſo mit boͤſem vnnatuͤrlichem luft angefochten werden / als zu vnmenſchlicher Speiß vnnd dergleichen / vertreibt es jhnen ſolchen boͤſen luft / bekrefftigt jhnen den Magen / ſaͤubert vnd erquickt die Frucht in Mutter leib. Dann diß Waſſer / wie auch oggemelt / alle trawrigkeit vnd vnmuth hinweg nimbt / von wegen ſeiner krefftigen tugent / das Hertz zustercken vnnd bekrefftigen. Diß Waſſer dienet auch dem Magen vn̄ der Leber inſonderheit / bringt ſie widerumb zurecht / wo die zuſehr erkaltet / oder mit ſchaͤdlicher vberfluͤſſiger feuchten erfuͤllet / sterckt vnnd hilfft der daͤwung / vnnd treibet hinweg ſolche ſchaͤdliche feuchte / die ſich im Magen verſamblet hat. Hat ein ſonderliche treibende krafft / die gebuͤrliche reinigung der Weiber zu fuͤrdern / vnnd die todte Geburt außzutreiben, Das Waſſer ſo von den Blumen oḋ der Rinden in ihrem eignen ſauren Safft erhitziget / dienet den Augen / ſol auch ein ſonderliche krafft haben / das ſchilend Geſicht widerumb in die rechte natuͤrliche geſtalt zubringen / vnd die dicken groben Fell vnd flecken hinweg zutreiben / mit zimlicher eyterung der hitz deß Augſchwerens / vnnd hinweg nemen der vngeſtalten roͤte.” [10-54 rechts] [10-55 links]
Used externally, it strengthens the heart and brain due to its lovely smell, but also helps with fainting and weakness. It protects against infection by pestilential air, strengthens digestion, expels tapeworms and is useful in treating bites from poisonous creatures.
– “Pomerantzen / Citrinaten / vnd Limonenbluͤt oder Rindenwaſſer auſſerhalb zubrauchen. WIewol das obgemelt Waſſer von wegen ſeiner vielfaͤltigen tugent / manigfaltiger weiſe / innerhalb vnd auſſerhalb in Leib gebraucht werden mag / ſo hat es doch ſonderliche krafft vnd tugent / deß anmuͤtigen lieblichen geruchs halben / das Hertz vnd Hirn wunderbarlich zuſtercken vnd bekräfftigen / in allen obgemelten gebrechen / als nemlich wider alles vergifft / deßgleichen in onmacht vnnd ſchwachheit / dann ſolches Waſſer von den erfarnen aͤrtzten inſonderheit gebrauchet wirt in alle Epithemata oder Hertzbehungen / ſo man in Peſtilentziſchen Febern vnd andern gebrechen / auſſerhalb mit Leinin oder Seidin tuͤchlin oder Badſchwammen vberlegt. So iſt auch der geruch krefftig vnd gut / den Menſchen vor aller inficierung / vergifftes / ſchaͤdlichs / Peſtilentziſches Luffts / zuverſchonen vnd bewaren. Auff den Magen gelegt / erwermet es denſelben / vnnd ſtercket die daͤwung / treibt auch denjungen Kindern die Wuͤrm auß / vnnd iſt ein sehr krefftige nuͤtzliche Artzney fuͤr aller gifftiger Wuͤrm vnd vngezifer biß / als Schlangen / Scorpion /vnd ander Thier / den ſchaden demit gewaſchen / vnd mit genetzten tuͤchlin vbergelegt.” [10-54 rechts] [10-55 links]
Elsewhere the book describes the virtues of aqua vitae, the virtues of which are to invigorate and refresh the whole body, especially the brain, the heart and all the members of the viscera and the whole body. It mentions various drugs that can be used in its preparation, including citron apples together with bitter orange and lemon. [10-179 rechts]
– “Damit wir aber hierinn nit zu weit außſchweiffen / woͤllen wir wieder zu den ſtucken tretten / welche ſolchem Aqua vitae zu eim zuſatz gegeben werden / innerhalb in Leib zubrauchen. Vnd erſtlich welche den gantzen Leib bekrefftigen vnd erquicken / als nemlich das hirn / hertz vnd alle glieder deß eingeweyds vnd gantzen Leibs / vnd seynd diß solche stuck: … Citrinaten oͤpffeln / sampt den Pomerantzen vnd Limonen …” [10-179 rechts]
Conclusion
By the 16th century at the latest, people were already making curaçao, even if they called the result something else. In 1588, a book from Amsterdam describes how to distil orange peel. A book from Frankfurt, published in 1597, also describes how to macerate bitter orange peel in wine or brandy and then distil it. It is recommended to use the potion internally and externally, also mixed with sugar. So a sweetened “curaçao” was already being made in those years.
17th century
In our search for sources, we have focused less on German-language sources for the 17th century. We have listed them extensively for the 16th century and have even found recipes there that correspond to that of a curaçao. We have not found any English or Dutch publications from that period. However, this changes in the 17th century.
The Netherlands
Let us first turn to the Dutch sources.
In 1686, a Dutch book wrote: “A pleasant orange water, to smell. Take as much orange blossom as you like, add a few pieces of orange peel, pour over it as much lily of the valley water as will cover it, distil this gently in a water bath, so that you have a very sweet-smelling water.” [14-30] [14-31]
– “LXXXI. Een aangenaam Oranje water, om te ruyken. Neemt Oranje-bloesem, soo veel gy begeert, doet daar eenige stukjes Oranje-schillen by, giet hier over soo veel water van lelytjes van den Dale, dat het bedoken legge, distilleert dan dit sagjes in ‘t water-bad, soo hebt gy een seer liefelijk riekend water.” [14-30] [14-31]
The Dutch botanist Abraham Munting, who died in 1683, [30] also described citrus fruits in his book – we have the edition from 1696. He published recipes that were taken from other works. However, these recipes often do not bring any new knowledge. One distils fruits, juice, seeds and blossoms and names what it is useful for. We refrain from quoting them all here. [6-13] [6-14] [6-15] Interesting is a recipe according to which lemon peel is put into French brandy – probably a brandy is meant here – and then distilled according to the rules of the art.
– “Daarenboven, wil iemand gedurig een goode Maag hebben, die neeme ieder, of om den tweeden morgen, een leepel twee of drie van’t fedistileert Water, ‘t welk op de volgende wijze werd gemaakt: Neem drie of vier Kannen Rhijnsche, of goede Fransche Brandewijn: doe daar in de Schellen van vijftig varssche Citroenen: Distilleer dit zagtjens na de konst. Met dit Water zomtijds ‘t Aangezicht gewasschen, maakt ook en zuyver Vel: Verdrijft de Zomer-sproetelen: Neemd wech alle Vlekken en Puysten: en is goed teegens al de voorgenoemde ongeleegentheeden.” [6-14]
Another recipe also refers to brandy:
– “In Brandewijn, ob de voorheenen verhaalde wijze, gedistilleert, en daar von ‘s morgens een weynig gedronken, versterkt, en brengd weer te regt een quade Maag: Maakt een vrolijk Hert: Bewaard den Mensch voor alle booze, pestilentiale lucht: Verdrijft alle Zomer-sproetelen en vlekken des Aangezichts.” [6-15]
As with the recipe from 1597 that we found, brandy is also used here.Also important is a recipe according to which a water is distilled from the whole and cut fruits, which is then mixed with a little sugar. This is practically a curaçao liqueur.
– “Uyt de Vruchten, ‘t zij geheel of doorgesneeden, werd en Water gedistilliert, ‘t welk, vermengd met een weynig Zuyker, zeer dienstig is in hittige Koortzen, en om de Maag te sterken: Want alle galachtige en flijmerige Vochten drijft het wech, zoo uyt de Maag als uyt de Darmen.” [6-14]
You can also add a lemon syrup instead of sugar:
– “‘t Zaad, of de Korlen, droog en verkoelend in den tweeden Graad, werkt niet alleen krachtiger teegens alle Vergif, als de Schel, of’t Zap, maar verdrijfd ook de onnatuurlijke Luften der Vrouwen : Is zeer dienstig, om de Wormen te doden en uyt te jagen : ‘t Zelve doet ook ‘t Water, gedistilleert uyt ‘t Zap, vermengd met Syroop van Citroenen, en daar van, ‘t zij Kinderen, ‘t zij oude Perfoonen , die Wormen hebben, te drinken gegeeven : Verquikt ook ‘t Hert : Lescht de dorst : Verwekt eetens-lust , en in de Vrouwen de Maandstonden : maar veroorzaakt ook wel een Misval, inzonderheyd wanneer ‘t te veel van een bevruchte Vrouw gebruykt, of gegeeten werd.” [6-14]
What must also be noted: it is a Dutch book, and all sorts of authors are quoted. Interestingly, no curaçao oranges are mentioned, and no liqueur of the same name! This suggests that the term was not yet known in 1683.
France
In 1659, a French book describes the production of orange water. However, this is nothing other than a lemonade: [29-132]
– “Eau d’orange. Elle se fait de mesme que celle de cystron.“ [29-132] „Eau de cytron. Prenez vn cytron, coupez en la peau par zestes, mettez les dās vne éguiere auec vne pinte d’eau & vn quarteron de fucre: battez les bien d’vn vaisseau à l’autre, & lors qu’elle aura pris le goust de cytron, passez- la comme les autres.” [29-132]
In 1694, a French medicine book says: “To make orange water. Take half a quarter of large oranges and six lemons, remove the thin peel, chop them into pieces and remove the thick white peel, which is thrown away. Add half an ounce of cloves and an ounce of cinnamon and let it all soak in a quart of white wine for three days. Then throw it all into the still to distil, along with a pint of white honey and a pint of rose water, which you mix well together.” [28-72]
– “Pour faire l’Eau d’Orange. IL faut prendre demi-quarteron de grosses Oranges & six Citrons, en ôtet la menue pelure de dessus, & la hacher par morceaux, puis ôter la grosse pelure blanche, que l’on jettera: on y joindra demi-once de clous de girofle, & une once de canelle; puis l’on mettra tremper le tout dans une quarte de vin blanc, l’espace de trois jours. Après on jettera tout dans la cloche pour distiller, avec une pinte de miel blanc, & une pinte d’eau Rose qu’on mêlera bien ensemble.” [28-72]
England
An English recipe book from 1662 states how to make orange water: “To make Orange Water. Take a pottle of the best Malligo sack, and put in as many of the peels of Oranges as will go in, cut the white clean off, let them steep twenty four hours; still them in a gl[as?]s still, and let the water run into the Receiver upon fine Sugarcandy; you may still it in an ordinary still.” [27-206]
“The London Distiller”, a 1667 book by John French, states: “CHAP. IX. Of Limen, or Orange Water. The greater quantity. Take Strong Proof-spirit what sufficeth, Limon or Orange pils dry 30 ounces, Anniseeds of the best 16 ounces; bruise the pils and seeds; distil them into strong Proof-spirt according to Art, dulcifie with white Sugar 5 pound. The lesser quantity. Take strong Proof-spirit 1 gallon, Limon or Orange pils dry 3 ounces, Anniseeds of the best 1 ounce 5 drams, bruise the pils and seeds; distil them into strong Proof-spirit according to Art; dulcifie with white Sugar 8 ounces. Limon water strengtheneth and reviveth the feeble spirits aromatizeth the stomach, and is a great Cordial. It also openeth obstructions, exceedingly breaketh wind in the stomach, is as an healing Balsam to all the inward parts, and is a great restorative to mans Nature.“[26-9]
Another English book, by Kenelm Digby from 1668, states: “An Excellent Orange-water or Spirit. Put the thin parings or chips of the rind of two hundred Oranges into a Cucurbite, so large that they fill it not above a third part full. Pour upon them six quarts of good Aquavitae; let them digest with a Blind-head close stopped during three or four days; then change that head for one with a Limbeck, and distil in Balneo. Keep the first two quarts by themselves; for they will be excellent good. Then change your Receiver, and the Oyl will come over with the rest of the liquor; towards the last, it will be too weak, both of the Orange and of the Spirit of Wine. Mingle one quart of excellent Syrup of Clove-Gilly-flowers, with the two first quarts; and it will be an excellent Cordial water. You may Aromatise it with Ambergris; and then it will be much better to those that love Amber.” [21] [25-276] [25-277]
Conclusion
Recipes reminiscent of Curaçao liqueurs can also be found in the 17th century, for example in books from the Netherlands, France and England. It is noticeable that in this century the term ‘curaçao’ is not yet used. Instead, the term orange water (Eau d’Orange) is used. Orange peel is macerated in wine or brandy, distilled and sugar or honey is added. Spices such as clove, cinnamon, clove, aniseed, ambergris and rose water are also used as ingredients.
18th century
A few interesting finds from the 18th century are also cited here.
Germany
In his Oekonomische Encyklopädie (Economic Encyclopaedia), Johan Georg Krünitz also describes distilled bitter orange in Volume Three, published in 1774, under the keyword Aurantium, namely: “Pomeranzen= Aquavit, Pomeranzen= or Orange- Wasser, Lat. Aqua, or Aqua vitae Aurantiorum, s. Corticum aurantiorum, Fr. Eau d’ Orange, can be made in many different ways. For example, one takes 4 pounds of bitter orange peel, marinates it for several days in 5 pots of brandy, then pours 7 more pots of brandy into it and distills it off in still. After this, take 2 pounds of sugar, purified and dissolved in water, 1/2 nößel of water per 1 jug of drained brandy, and mix it together. One may also put some sandalwood into the brandy and filter it through blotting paper. One can also proceed in the same way with other things, such as: cinnamon, lemon peel, caraway, aniseed, cardamom, juniper, etc. that one first soaks the species in good brandy, but then adds more and coats it. It should be noted, however, that the aquavit must also be coloured according to the nature of the spices, which makes it more attractive than, for example, with red sandalwood red, with yellow sandalwood yellow, or also with coccionellas red, likewise with saffron yellow, with litmus on violet, with hogweed, ruff and creus berries green, and so on. These things are only hung in or put in completely. It should also be noted that both the bitter orange and other aquavites must be sweetened with sugar water, and that this sugar water must be prepared beforehand in this way: 1/2 pound of sugar is taken for 1 pot of water, and this is boiled with each other; then this is allowed to cool, and then as much of it is added to the drawn-off spirit as it can bear. For it cannot be drunk too strong without sugar water; if, on the other hand, too much sugar water is added, it becomes not only cloudy but also too weak. The bitter orange aquavit can also be prepared in a different way. Take dry bitter orange peel, but only the outside of it, about 1/2 pound and 1 nößel of Spiritum Vini, put this together in a glass bottle, put it in the warm oven in ashes or sand for 14 days, shake it every day, then strain it, sweeten it with sugar water and filter it through blotting paper. See also Pomeranzen=Branntwein.” [1] [11-127] [11-128]
– “Pomeranzen= Aquavit, Pomeranzen= oder Orange- Wasser, Lat. Aqua, oder Aqua vitae Aurantiorum, s. Corticum aurantiorum, Fr. Eau d’ Orange, kann auf gar verschiedene Art gemacht werden. Als z. E. man nimmt 4 Pfund Pomeranzenschalen, beizet solche etliche Tage in 5 Kannen Branntwein; gießet hernach noch 7 Kannen Branntwein darzu, und ziehet solchen in einer Abzieh=Blase ab. Nach diesem nimmt man 2 Pfund geläuterten und in Wasser zerlaßenen Zucker, auf 1 Kanne abgezogenen Branntwein 1/2 Nößel Wasser gerechnet, und mischet es unter einander. Man leget auch wohl etwas Sandelholz mit in den Branntwein, und filtriret es also durch Löschpapier. Also kann man auch mit mehrern andern Sachen verfahren, als: mit Zimmet, Citronenschalen, Kümmel, Anis, Cardamomen, Wachholder, u. d. gl. daß man die Species erst in guten Branntwein einweichet, alsdenn aber mehr zugießet und ihn überziehet. Hierbei aber ist zu merken, daß man auch nach Beschaffenheit der Specierum den Aquavit färben mus, welches ihm sodenn mehr Ansehen macht, als z. E. mit rothem Sandel roth, mit gelbem Sandel gelb, oder auch mit Coccionellen roth, desgleichen mit Safran gelb, mit Lackmus auf violett, mit Bärenklau, Krausemünze und Creuzbeeren grün, u. s. w. Es werden diese Sachen nur hinein gehangen oder ganz darein gelegt. Hierbei ist auch zu merken, daß man sowohl den Pomeranzen= als auch andere Aquavite mit Zuckerwasser absüßen, und dieses Zuckerwasser vorher also bereitet werden mus: Als auf 1 Kanne Wasser wird 1/2 Pf. Zucker genommen, und solches mit einander aufgesotten; hernach läßt man solches erkalten, und alsdenn wird davon so viel unter den abgezogenen Spiritus gethan, als er vertragen kann. Denn allzu stark ist er ohne Zuckerwasser nicht zu trinken; wenn man hingegen allzu viel Zuckerwasser darunter thut, so wird er davon nicht nur trübe, sondern auch zu schwach. Auf eine andere Art kann auch der Pomeranzen=Aquavit also bereitet werden. Man nimmt trockene Pomeranzenschalen, aber nur das Aeussere davon, etwa 1/2 Pf. und 1 Nößel Spiritum Vini, thut solches zusammen in eine gläserne Flasche, setzet es 14 Tage lang auf den warmen Ofen in Asche oder Sand, rüttelt es alle Tage um, seihet es alsdenn ab, süßet es mit Zuckerwasser ab, und filtriret es durch Löschpapier. Siehe auch Pomeranzen=Branntwein.” [1] [11-127] [11-128]
He writes about Pomeranzen-Branntwein (bitter orange brandy): “Pomeranzen=Branntwein. After the whiteness has been subtly removed, the bitter orange peel is cut into long, narrow pieces, like cabbage, thrown into a glass bottle, strong brandy is poured over it and it is placed in the sun. As often as one has peels, one can add them to it, so that it remains strong and vigorous.” [1] [11-129]
– “Pomeranzen=Branntwein. Man schneidet die Pomeranzenschalen, nachdem das Weiße subtil herausgenommen worden, in länglichte schmale Stücke, wie Kraut, wirft sie in eine gläserne Flasche, gießet starken Branntwein darauf, und setzet es an die Sonne. So oft man Schalen hat, kann man sie darzu thun, damit er kräftig und stark bleibe.“ [1] [11-129]
The Netherlands
In the Amsterdamse Courant on 4 May 1724, “Oranje Water” is offered in bottles, which can be obtained from “Dirk Klattenburg op de Blaeuwburkwal”. [18]
On 4 January 1725, orange and lime peel are offered in the Amsterdamse Courant, and also “Oranje Water”, [17] likewise on 9 January. [16]
Also on 2 August 1736, “Oranje Water” is offered in the Amsteramde Courant, [15] likewise on 9 August. [13]
In 1743, the “Huishoudelyk woordboek”, a household dictionary by M. Noel Chomel defines: “Orange-water. Take orange and lemon peels, both fresh, half a cup each; cloves, five or six ounces; lavender flowers, freshly picked, six ounces. Let it stand four or five days on six pounds of Rozen water, and then distil it.” [2]
– “Oranje-water. Neemt Oranje en Citroen-schil, beide versch, een halve once van elks; Kruidnagelen, vyf of zes oncen; Lavendel-bloessem, versch geplukt, zes oncen. Laat het zamen vier of vyf dagen op zes pond Roozen-water staan; vervolgens distilleert het.” [2]
On 1 September 1772, it is announced in the Rotterdamse Courant that Johan Hendrik Adolph Doetsch “allerbest Oranje Water, dat zeer goed by een glas Wyn en voor de gezondheit is” – “allerbest Oranje Water, that is very good with a glass of wine and for health“. [5]
On 5 August 1786, “18 Flessen Oranje-Water”, i.e. “18 bottles of orange water” are offered for sale in the Amsterdams Courant. [3]
In 1795 it is written: “SPIRIT OF ORANGE PEEL. Take shredded orange peel, two pounds. Common brandy, four pounds. Let it steep for two days and distil it. In the same way prepare the SPIRIT OF LEMON PEEL.” [12-75]
– „GEEST VAN ORANJE-SCHILLEN. Neem versche Oranje-schillen, twee pond, Gemeenen Brandewyn, vier pond. Trek het twee dagen, en haal het over. Op dezelfde wyze bereidt men GEEST VAN CITROEN-SCHILLEN.“ [12-75]
England
“The compleat distiller”, an English book from 1705, published in the 2nd edition, states: “Aqua Limoniarum aut Aurantiorum, Limon, or, Orange Water. Composition the greater. Distiller. Take of good Proof Spirits sixteen gallons, Limon or Orange Pills dry, three pound, Aniseeds the best one pound, nine ounces, five drachms, bruise the Pills and Seeds, and then distill into fine Spirit, and dulcifie with white Sugar eight pound. [Addition] Caraway seeds six ounces, four drachms, Aniseeds, Limon Pills dry, ana. one pound and a half, five drachms, grains six, white Sugar four pound: In the like manner and quantity you may make your Composition with Orange Pills dry. Composition the lesser. Take of good Proof Spirit three gallons, Limon or Orange pills dry, nine ounces, Aniseeds the best four ounces, eight drachms; bruise the pills and seeds, and then distill into fine Spirit, Secundum Artem , dulcifie with white Sugar one pound and a half. [Addition] Carawaysees one ounce, three drachms, grains fifteen; Aniseeds, Limon pills dry, ana. four ounces, seven drachms, white Sugar twelve ounces: In the like manner, and quantity you may make your Composition with Orange pills dry.” [24-74] [24-75]
In 1707 it was written: “Orange water is made in the following manner: Take of the yellow Peel of half an Hundred of the best fresh and well-colour’d Oranges, infuse them four or five Days in three Quarts of Sack and two Quarts of Nants-Brandy; put a Pound of Loaf-Sugar into it to sweeten it.” [23-317]
This is an example of a recipe in which distillation is not used, but the peel is only macerated, here in a mixture of sherry and brandy.
Mary Kettilby writes in 1714: “A Cordial Orange-Water. TAKE three quarts of good Brandy, and the Rinds of a dozen and a half of Oranges, pare them very thin, that none of the White go in, let them steep in the Brandy three Days and Nights close stopt; then take five pints of Fair-Water, and a pound and a half of double-refin’d Sugar; Boil this Syrop half an Hour, and scum it as any rises; then strain it through a Jelly-bag, and let it stand ’till cold; then mix it with the Brandy, which must be first pour’d from the Peels, and settled: Keep it for Use.” [22-117] [22-118]
An English book from 1725 describes how to prepare orange water.- “Lemon or Orange-water. 20 gallons of rectify’d Spirits … 6 pounds of Lemon or Orange-peels dry’d … 7 pounds of Sugar … Directions for Orange-water, &c. Lemon-water is not near so much in request as Orange-water, nor indeed is it so pleasant or grateful to the palate as Orange: they are not much known, or used in the country: but the agreeable relish, or flavour thereof, will make it much preferable to the double or single Anniseed. Clove, Angelica, or such like goods: I mean Orange, especially double Orange, which is sold much dearer than other such like goods; purely to get an opinion in the buyer, that it is a more rich and valuable Commodity: and the more to keep up its reputation, as well as the temptation of a greater profit thereby. The skins or peels muft be all of the Sevil, and none of the China Oranges; and muft be kept very dry, or they will grow damp and putre- fy’d, and not fit to be used. If you buy or procure green Orange-peel, you muft spread it very thin in a dry chamber, and turn it oft, and not put it by for use, ’till exceedingly well dry’d.” [4-28] [4-29]
Another English recipe appears in 1746 and reads: “AQUA CORTICUM AURANTIORUM SPIRITUOSA, The SPIRITUOUS WATER of ORANGE-PEEL. Take of the outer yellow rind of fresh Seville oranges half a pound, of proof spirit a gallon, of water as much, as is sufficient to avoid burning. Distill off a gallon.” [8-244]
Conclusion
In 1774, Georg Krünitz describes the bitter orange and the products derived from it in great detail. He writes: “Pomeranzen= Aquavit, Pomeranzen= or Orange- Wasser, Lat. Aqua, or Aqua vitae Aurantiorum, s. Corticum aurantiorum, Fr. Eau d’ Orange, can be made in many different ways.” Interestingly, he does not yet know the name Curaçao either. This is an indication that the term came into use later. He describes different recipes. The basic recipe is always the same. The bitter orange peel is macerated in brandy. Then you can optionally distil or just strain the peel and add sugar. Optionally, you can also use different spices.
In the Netherlands, you can find newspaper advertisements for orange water (Oranje Water) and recipes similar to the ones we mentioned from the 17th century. In England, too, orange water (aqua aurantiorum) is still made.
So there are numerous recipes that correspond to a macerated or distilled, sweetened or unsweetened, spiced or un-spiced curaçao of later times. So we see that the curaçao that appears around 1800 is nothing new. Only the name seems to be really new.
Conclusion
Now, at the end of this series, we of course want to give you a recommendation. We have established that originally, and even in the 19th century, a curaçao was made by macerating bitter orange peel, then optionally distilling it and optionally adding sugar. The curaçao was also – but not always – coloured, but this has no effect on the taste. Originally, spices were rather not used; this seems to have become fashionable only in more recent recipes. Based on this, it becomes clear which product should be used in old recipes – and why not in modern ones – when a curaçao is called for: A bitter orange eau-de-vie. If necessary, one has to adjust the recipe slightly and add some more sugar syrup. We have started to keep it that way and are more than happy with the result.
Sources
explicit capitulum
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